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Question, brake and hyd lines

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Mine are orginial steel, all cleaned up. Look like new.

How were they protected. Paint, clear coat. What did they look like orginally?

How what do I do with them now to prevent rust?
 
Hello Jlaird,

from those I've seen they had a zinc coating as a protective finish.
I always replace brake lines with copper instead of steel.

Alec
 
Copper is not supose to be so good as it cracks with stress, etc. What do you protect it with, clear coat?
 
Copper's a bad idea. May even find it's not legal here inna Colonies. Clear coat would be fine, Jack. I've painted 'em with LPS "zinc" paint in the past but THAT is now off the market, or I just can't find it easily. Gloss black or red, kinda "owner's discretion" stuff. There is a "cast iron" color rattle-can paint that looks nice, too.
 
Jack,

As others point out they were originally zinc plated steel. Here's a picture of a new zinc plated line/fitting next to the old (just installed all my brake lines yesterday). Silver paint with a clear coat will approximate the finish but you will need to keep any build up off the usable portion of the threads. Zinc paint would be nice to find .. maybe someone else will 'pipe in' with a substitute.

Cheers,
John
brakeline.jpg
 
I make my own lines new. I buy new sticks of 3/16th line from the parts house and replace the ends with the old ones. You do need to have an iso flaring tool and a double flaring tool. That way I know they are right from the start. I also recommend DOT-5/ silicone fluid. No H2O no rust. I can park my cars for years if needed and still have brakes.
 
I've done the same for years. Some Bundy pipe, a "Rigid" small tubing bender and a double-flare tool kit. Pennies a foot, and a good sense of security it's been done right the first time.

I don't use the silicone fluid, but likely will change to it with the Elan rebuild.
 
Sounds like a plan again, gesh I only have a regular flare tool need to find a double one.

Thanks guys
 
Actually you can you a double flare unit in a pinch. just don't perform the second step. I have been forced at the track to do this and it worked great.
 
Did not understand that Roger.
 
When you perform a double flare you have to bubble the end of the tube then take the flaring part of the unit and push the flare back in to create and double layer flare...double flare.
In some cases I have just not pushed the flare in and left the bubble unfinished.
 
Ahh, right. Used this tool on copper when redoing a house and some other misc copper over the years.
 
Parts sources for double flaring tools? I have a friend who's let me borrow his on numerous occasions, but I would like to get my own.
 
Hello all,

I have had this discussion about copper brake lines several times on this forum. The tubing I use (20 + years) is a thick wall tube especially sold for automotive use here in the UK. It needs no protective coating and the only difference is that it needs more clips to support it than steel. That and brass fittings mean a reliable and easily maintained system.

Alec
 
FYI, Moss carries replacement brake line kits that are copper/nickel alloy. I used a set when I replaced the lines on mine, and they won't rust.
-Dave
 
Think the copper are against the law here.

Gota be safe for your own good you know.

Did not mean to usset Piman, intresting info.
 
I agree, and copper isn't legal here either. That's why they aren't pure copper, and claim to be stronger than the steel lines they are replacing. They're made by Automec in the U.K., and these are supposedly what go into Jaguars.
 
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