• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 Question about TR6 gear shift knob

Share this page

MrPandy

MrPandy

Senior Member
Offline
I removed the shift knob on my '71 TR6 to replace the shift boot and was surprised when I saw that the shaft was smooth, not threaded, and so was the hole in the knob. There's some kind of white insert in the hole, with no visible threads. It's a black plastic knob with the shift pattern on it in white. Is this the way it came originally, or was it 'improved' by the previous owner?

I want to get a wooden knob with the Triumph shield but I'm afraid that the PO took that option away from me. Thanks.
 
Is it possible that the tranny is from an earlier model TR? The TR3 I had many years ago had this same shift nob. Too, some early TR6's (UK models) had this type of nob. (I like this nob as it feels good in the palm. I tried to sub a new old one that was serving as a paper weight on my TR6 but it had the wrong size hole.) Bottom line, you may have a shift arm from another car, unlikely that the original US car had a threadless end. How did you get it off, was it glued or just jammed on? Sounds like you are stuck with what you got.

Bill
 
Bill,
With this car, anything is possible. I thought that I was removing a threaded knob, so I twisted it anti-clockwise (even though I'm not British) until it came off. That's when I noticed that the shaft and the hole were both smooth.

Andy
 
Hi,

It would be easy to swap the shift lever, if you want a threaded one. They are pretty easy to find, too. For example: eBay auction #4567847437

Removal and installation of the shift lever is simple... just two bolts involved. The only thing to watch out for is the "anti-rattle" plunger and spring in the bottom, that it doesn't fall out and get lost (if it hasn't already... they seem to be missing from most gearboxes).

(p.s. I have no financial interest in that auction, nor any knowledge of the seller or item.)

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
Any good shop has a tap and die set.Buy your shift knob then go to a good shop and cut the threads in the parking lot.A 5 min job.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Removal and installation of the shift lever is simple... just two bolts involved. The only thing to watch out for is the "anti-rattle" plunger and spring in the bottom, that it doesn't fall out and get lost

[/ QUOTE ]

I tried doing this on my "TR4A" gear box and it was not that simple. The long bolt that goes right through took a lot of delicate "work" with penetraiting oil and back and forth etc. to get out (I would guess about 20 minutes). the small rear bolt came out simply enough. These bolts are small diameter and I was worried I would break them. But this is not the part that got me. Once these two bolts were removed, I was never able to get the metal "cap" off the gear box cover. I think it is rusted on and there is so much surface area there I could not get it to come off. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove it.
 
The original shift lever was threaded, and the original shift knob wes black leather with a metallic insert with the shift pattern on it. I'm sure you can get a used shift lever with threads, and that way you'll know any of the original or after market shift knobs will screw onto it. Good luck!

Mark
1970 TR-6
 
[ QUOTE ]
... Once these two bolts were removed, I was never able to get the metal "cap" off the gear box cover. I think it is rusted on and there is so much surface area there I could not get it to come off. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Adrio,

I'd just put some penetrating oil on it and let it soak for a while, then tap all the way around with a plastic mallet or use a wood block/ball peen hammer. If that doesn't do the trick, maybe some gently applied heat from a torch would help. Finally a soft aluminum or brass drift might be used to tap from the bottom, catching on the outer edge, working around to gradually push it up and off.

That cap is pretty thin metal. As rusty as it sounds, I'd want to get it off and check that there isn't a possiblity of breakage.

I guess I was really lucky, both gearboxes I've got are rust free and even the original was easily disassembled when first removed from the car.

One thing occured to me after my original response: TR4A and later have the different dash brace, with the piece that extends back to and around the shift lever. I can't be sure, but that dash brace might need to come out to allow the long bolt from side-to-side to come completely out.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
Thanks Alan. The part is soaking as I type. As to the dash brace, I don't know if it had to come off, but my guess would be yes it does. I has the tonnel and the brace and the tranny all out of the car for this so that is why I don't know for sure. If it were possible without removing the brace it would require some fine work deep in a hole.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm now considering cutting threads on the shift lever for a new knob. Does anyone know what the thread size should be? I'm guessing 5/16-18, but I hope someone knows for sure. I suppose that I could buy the knob first and measure it, but where's the fun in that?

Thanks,
Andy
 
Re: Question about TR6 gear shift knob - Update

I get the DUH! award for this week. I looked closely at the shaft and could see what looked like a few threads at the bottom of the smooth part that was inside the knob. I grabbed the end with some pliers, twisted it, and... unscrewed the insert that had come out of the shift knob. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Voila! Threaded shaft! Embarassed owner! Ordering new knob.
 
Re: Question about TR6 gear shift knob - Update

There should be a locknut on the shaft below the knob also, to allow you to align the knob the way you want it and lock it. As I recall it's a bit of an unusual thread. Pete
 
Re: Question about TR6 gear shift knob - Update

The locknut will also allow you to tighten the new knob on much better. I learned the hard way on that one. I had just put the engine back in my car - I took it for a test drive and my original knob rattled off and fell through the space between the tranny and floor pan (my tranny tunnel was not installed at the time) onto the road never to be seen again.
 
Re: Question about TR6 gear shift knob - Update

If thats the worse that happens to you while owning your TR6 you should consider yourself a very lucky guy. lol BTW welcome to the group
 
Re: Question about TR6 gear shift knob - Update

That's a downer... I've done that too- driven w/ out the tunnel out. Better not get your hand or anything else near the rotating driveshaft!

[ QUOTE ]
The locknut will also allow you to tighten the new knob on much better. I learned the hard way on that one. I had just put the engine back in my car - I took it for a test drive and my original knob rattled off and fell through the space between the tranny and floor pan (my tranny tunnel was not installed at the time) onto the road never to be seen again.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
Re: Question about TR6 gear shift knob - Update

I once shifted my 1978 Spitfire into third gear and my hand continued right into the dash with the knob still in my hand - the shaft broke off right at the base of the knob. Luckily, it didn't have the switch in the knob for overdrive like my previous Spit had. That was back in around 1984, and the dealer want somewhere near $100 for a new shaft. I found a bolt that fit the threads in the knob and had a local welder stick it on the end of the shaft for $5. When I asked if it would hold, he told me that it was now the strongest part of the entire car. And now I believe him.
 
Back
Top