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Question-3m Strip Caulk and Fender Attachment

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milemarker60

milemarker60

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Here's another question I need remedied. I'm about to put the fenders on my TR6 and have acquired 3m Strip Caulk to use on the rears between the tub and fender. This stuff is not the most malleable product in the world so I'm wondering just exactly how you guys have applied the stuff. My concern is to what extent it will actually squeeze when tightening the attach bolts down. I had imagined the product would ooze out as the surfaces were pulled together but I'm not so certain about this now that I have been playing with the stuff.

The flange is about 1" wide; have you guys been applying the product to the entire surface? Rolling it up like plumbers putty and laying down the center? I am most concerned about filling/sealing any voids both from the outside and inside of the fender well to seal out water from the joint.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Dave
 
Since your car isn't stock anyway, why not get the metal fender beading, as on a TR250 and like on a spitfire? I believe very early 6's had them.
 
Hi Dave
FWIW. I just removed my rear fender after having put it on about a year ago. I used a clear paintable silcone sealant for along the top of the fender and I used a seam sealer down the rear vertical and around the tail light area.
The clear was applied after mounting the fender but before tightening the bolts, as I wanted a weather seal to keep out moisture. After tightening, I cleaned off the excess.
This seams (pardon) to have worked well. It looks dark when installed, but no black mess to worry about. It separated fairly easily and adhered well.
The seam sealer was a different story. This product became hard and difficult to separate. It almost seemed to crack apart. It also was difficult to clean off. I will get the exact names when I get home. The seam sealer came from an auto body supply store called WESCO Paints. I would look for something more pliant.
 
Warming the 3m Strip Caulk will make it more pliable and is best applied in warm-hot environment. It is designed to be worked with and applied by hand. You do not need, nor desire a thick application, so with a little trial and error apply just enough over the entire surface to fill the voids when attaching the fender to the body. The caulk can be smoothed with a rag dampened with paint thinner.
 
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