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Putting a 1275 in a rubber Bumper car

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Trevor Jessie

Trevor Jessie

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I have decided to put a 1275 in a rubber bumper car, and I'm not sure about the brake lines. Will the junction and lines be too close to the exhaust? I'm thinking that they should be moved, but I'm looking for advice from people that have gone done this before.

Thanks
 
lbcnewbie (Ed in NC) did it here.
I cannot remember about the brake lines though, but someone else here might - BillM?
 
No problem with brake line clearance on my 1500 car (race car) converted to 1275.

I'm using a header, but it doesn't look like the stock manifold would be a problem either.

You will need to change the hydraulic line routing to the clutch slave cylinder.
 
Trevor,

Take a look at Ed's (lbc_newbie) flicker link in his signare. He has lots of pictures of his resto there. He pick up the car with the 1275 already installed, but pretty much redid everything.
 
Never done it myself, but you could always add a heat shield if you're concerned about it. Check the hot rod web sites some of these specialty stainless/ceramic shields. They're not terribly expensive. I used one on an XKE w.5.0 Ford V8 to shield the starter from the header. Stater wouldn't work right when it got too hot. Worked to solve the problem.
 
Thanks,
I'm pretty sure there is clearance, I just wasn't sure about the heat. I think I'll leave them as they are.
 
Why am I putting a 1275 in a rubber bumper car? Because I was given a rubber bumper car with a bad engine. People started giving me grief about parting it out and I started feeling guilty. I was looking for a 1500 engine for the car when I ran across a '69 parts car for a reasonable sum. So ... I'm going to debumper the car and install the 1275 and ribcase. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the car ... I may donate it. It is just another way to procrastinate painting my Sprite. ;)
 
Trevor,

You just want to keep with Ugly Bug moniker. Even in black primer Ugly Bug is indeed cool.
 
Trevor, I've got a 1500 that has supposedly been freshly overhauled. It came with a bulk parts purchase along with the associated hardware.[trans, intake] also have a new set of headers. All to the right guy for a nominal price.:encouragement:

Kurt
 
Too late ... I'm committed to the 1275. (I like them better anyway). Bumper and fenders came off today. It needed a lot of cleanup, and the only way to really get the engine compartment tidy is to disassemble the front clip. I'll need to patch the battery tray and tweak one of the frame horns before moving forward. I'll be using the heater from the '69 so I'll be relocating the aperture in the shelf and making a relief area for the old style blower. I'm going to use as many as my old spares as possible (even it it means a little more fabrication time. In fact, I have a fiberglass bugeye nose that I briefly considered ... but then I'd feel obligated to do some sort of special treatment to the rear. Hopefully this weekend I can finish parting out the '69 and decide if I'm going to use those fenders or just patch up the '76 fender turn signal holes.
 
'76 'eh? TKC 2847 head and flat top pistons? I could use som'ma those.
 
You can McGyver the signal lights into the 1500 signal holes if it is easier
 
Nope, the pistons were dished (and ruined).

I know I can make the signal stay in the holes, but I like to cut, weld and grind. :smile:
 
Good for you, Trevor. Looks like you're making up a fairly low cost driver. Things seem a little slow and its nice to know something is getting done. Keep us up to date!

Kurt.
 
Trevor,

I will have a need for A-Arms, front spindles and calipers coming up, assuming this is a disc wheel Spridget, if you are going to part this one out.
 
Front sway bar as well.
 
I have available...

Definite: sway bar, spindles, calipers, steering arms
Maybe: disc wheel hubs.
 
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