PURCHASE ADVICE

[gcoll]

I am new to the forum and I am looking at a 1965 Austin Healey 3000 Mark 3 to purchase. I sold a 1961 AH 3000 in 1975 and am anxious to get back in the saddle after 36 years. I loved that car and promised myself that I would buy another some day and that day is now. Can you experts provide me any advice on my possible purchase such as problem areas to check for? red flags,what to avoid, fair purchase price? Any information or your personal experiences with your cars would be much appreciated. thanks in advance for your feedback

 

[mjobrien]

Rust - Rust Rust.... you will have to deal with it the question is how much and for what cost, have a budget buy the best car you can and stick to it. These project can get out of hand very quickly.

Lots of good resources on buying British cars and what to look for much of this applies to Healey's.

Hope that helps.
Michael.

 

[John_Progess]

You have to ask yourself want are you looking for. Do you want a driver or a show car. Are you willing to do any repairs yourself or will you have to pay to have them done. If you have to pay then as stated buy the best car you can. As mentioned rust is a big problem. Get a mirror and a flashlight and look at the underneath of the car very carefully. Check the sills, rocker panel, and outriggers that support the sills. Look at the B pillars in front of the rear tires. Find out all you can about the history of the car. The purchase price depends entirely on the condition of the car. Keep us posted and have a good day!

John

 

[tahoe healey]

Check the National Club magazines and buy the best you can afford. Cheaper than actions and more reliable than Craig's list. Many of us (not me yet) are getting to the point were we must get rid of our toys. Most all cars will need personal changes to suit the new owner so you will have plenty to do. Don't waste your time on rust. Dave Russell use to say to buy the best car you can afford, its cheaper.

 

[Legal Bill]

Every post above is right. Why don't you tell us something about your budget and intended use. Are you looking for a project to restore or a show car to exhibit at events or something in between? Our answers will vary depending on your needs and budget.

 

[Johnny]

If you don't already belong, join a local club, I'm sure there's a chapter near you. Attend the meetings, ask lots of questions. Since you've owned a Healey before you should know how to drive one and are familiar with how the overdrive works. Perhaps a fellow member knows the car you are thinking of purchasing, all the better.

Good advice is buy the best car you can afford, unless you plan on restoring one yourself. Then you should buy the worst one you can find, since you'll end up replacing everything anyway.

 

[elrey]

if you are not a mechanic have one look over the car, preferably a mech. with more than a passing acquaintance with these autos. Check for rust, of course and sight down the frame rails for deviations from straight. Look at the front end and crossmember areas for these are often bodged on repair by less than competent individuals. Beware of "engines runs strong", "prepped for paint", or the famed "needs T.L.C." as these are usually an indication that the cars been thrashed, the primer is hiding something, or the car has been maintained in a shoddy manner by an uncaring soul. Any and everything can go wrong with these cars, they can become a millstone around your neck in a hurry. So, be sure you are quite fond of it before you buy it, for you may find yourself wearing it later! Happy motoring, --elrey

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Some things that don't usually get mentioned in the 'look for this commentary:'

- get under the car. Check the front suspension brackets for damage or distortion (look for cracks in welds); i.e. from slamming a curb or parking stop. Also check front of chassis where swaybar brackets mount--often caved-in. Check condition of transmission tie-rod bushings (behind O/D). If they're rubber they will probably need replacing, else expensive radiator repair/stranding on side of road may result. Replace with urethane from Tom's Toy's or others.
- if nowhere else, look for rust in the pockets formed by the rear wings in front of the rear wheels. Check outside with magnet for (too much) filler, inspect backside best you can for rust.
- inspect all the hydraulic shock absorbers; if any leakers they will need to be rebuilt at about $50-75ea. Also, if they aren't leaking they may be dry--check fluid level.
- check for exhaust leaks; no big deal, but something to be dealt with (Healey exhausts are expensive and some aftermarket don't fit too good). Listen for exhaust leaks when running (often make a 'ticking' sound similar to lifter noise)
- with engine running, pull oil filler cap and look inside with flashlight--oil gushing from rockers means you'll need the rockershaft and rockers rebuilt
- inspect wiring closely. If it's never been replaced you'll need a new harness sooner or later. Look for bodged repairs to harness.
- the front (aluminum) shroud is bolted to a chassis bracket--it often cracks here
- inspect for leaks around brake lines. If possible, pull drums and look for leaks
- feel for sideways slop in brake and clutch pedals--there are bushes in there (I think) that will generally have a lot of wear
- when you turn the key on, before starting, listen to the fuel pump; should pump 5-10 times rapidly, then slow to a pump every few seconds
- test horn and turn signals--trafficator repairs are a PITA
- do sanity check on gas gauge; i.e. full vs. empty. Don't worry about jumpy needle when driving--'they all do that'
- take a long test drive--coolant temp should be 160-180deg depending on thermostat installed. If it heats up a lot on cool day there's problem(s)
- confirm speedometer and tachometer operation. Mechanical speedos and tachs get finicky.
- if wire wheels (probably), check for missing spokes and run a pen around all spokes--should have a uniform 'ring;' any 'thuds' and the wheels will need rebuilding or replacing.
- on test drive, expect 'scuttle shake' between 55-60mph; should smooth out above that. If not, wheels are badly out of true, drums/wheels are unbalanced or possibly chassis damage
- check operation of battery cut-off switch; engine should not crank, lights shouldn't light, etc. with switch in 'off' position.
- look for rust on boot (trunk) floor
- gas smell in boot? Time for new gas tank ($400+).
- look for leaks at steering gear and idler (though a smart seller would clean all the leaks off before buyer inspection)
- check sideways play in steering wheel; more than an inch each way is too much (may be fixed with adjustment on steering box, though you can't set it too tight either).

I could go forever ...

 

[elrey]

Thanx Bob. I didn't.

--elrey

 

[Michael Oritt]

Indeed Johnny is right: You'll get your best advice from other Healey owners and if you'd like to attend the next meeting of the Capital Area Austin-Healey Club please contact me offlist either by PM or at: michael.oritt@gmail.com.

 

[tahoe healey]

All that Bob said, most all of this can be fixed. The real big problem, in my opinion, is rust. One would ask if Healey owners are insane to deal with all this (and maybe we are) but it is the driving that is what it is all about. And Healey owners are like an extended family which is another thing that makes it worth while. And one cannot forget the thumbs up you get that puts a smile on your face.

 

[gcoll]

Thank You all for your responces the information is much appreciated.
To answer your Questions I am looking for a weekend driver to cruise in that I can enjoy taking short trips in. I am looking at a 1965 3000 mark 3 with 129,000 original miles. supposed to be a California car until the late 90's. The car is being sold by a collector who was asking $49,500.00 i made an offer and he is willing to let it go for around $45,000.00. There are plenty of service records including rebuilt engine and transmission at 123,000 miles and lots of other work performed including front suspension rebuild,clutch replacment,steering box rebuild,overhall overdrive unit,replaced voltage regulator,driveshaft U joints,brake and clutch master cylnder,new brake lines, fuel lines,new exhaust system,water pump,fuel pump,etc. new original gray wire spoked wheels with new michelin tires. nice original ambia interior, walnut dash, all crome looks good.fairly new paint red w/cream coves. drove it ran great with lots of power but the brakes needed bleeding so I couldn't really wind it out, and test it properly. any additional info now that you have more info would be greatly appreciated. I have seen better at $65000.00 and up but I don't want a show car. my comfort price range is only $40,000.00 to $45,000.00 what do you all think?

 

[anthony7777]

gcoll, my advice...buy a B.M.W.

 

[John Turney]

gcoll, my advice...buy a B.M.W.

Anyone can buy a BMW.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Look for bodged bodywork; esp. along the outer edges. I've seen lots of restos where the rocker panels and rear wing doglegs have not been fitted properly. Here's a photo of my BJ8 a few years ago, all original except for paint:

Note the gentle arc along the bottom of the front wing, the rocker and the rear fender. I see some repairs where the dogleg goes straight towards the rear wheel--some almost have a 'spur' that sticks out--there should be an oh-so-slight curve up and inward towards the rear wheel. Note also the relatively uniform gaps and door alignment. If you look close you can see blistering on the rear dogleg where a previous rust repair is degrading.

Run your hand along the inner lip of the wings (fenders). There should be a continuous bead; if not the fenders have been repaired.

The more you know, the better you can negotiate.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Buy the best one you can afford if its in the condition you want just as it is, or don't buy one. Unless you are a comnpetant do it yourselfer and can see a project to successful completion , avoid a project car as it will be too expensive to have someone else finish it. Pay to have someone that is expert in Healey restorations examine it if you're not comfortable yourself. The difference between a Healey that looks ok and is a good car throughout and one that is just a "driver" and a complete money pit to restore is not that detectable to an untrained eye. I'm talking about serious collision or rust damage !! An expert should be able to tell you how much each problem is to fix properly. Since Healeys have been highly sought after for twenty yrs now most of the good ones do not just come up for sale. You have a disadvantage since you owned one when it was only 14 yrs old , now you are looking at a 40 yr old car and you may well overlook some critical problems that the rest of us may identify quickly . The Healey is vulnerable to damage and much more expensive to fix properly than most people think and since they were just used cars for a long time its critical that hidden damage be found before it becomes your problem. Other than that its easy.

 

[Keoke]

Spend $350.00 and have a pro appraise the car---Keoke- :hammer:

 

[nevets]

Lots of good advice here...especially joining clubs and looking at cars listed in the club magazine classified sections. The sellers of those cars are catering to a knowledgeable audience, so they are more apt to be forthright in their descriptions and realistic in their pricing (mostly). That car you are considering may be a great deal or not. By looking at a few more cars in the same price range, you will be able to buy with confidence. Buy with your head not with your heart (easier said than done). Good luck...hope you find your dream Healey!

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Well, if the brakes were done, master, lines anyway, there is something wrong at the wheels if it needed bleeding.
Odd someone would put a car up for sale for a lot more than I paid for my HOUSE if they hadn't at least done something simple like bleed the brakes.
Might as well budget a brake job now.

 

[Bob McElwee]

With all that work done on it I would check with Healey Surgeons to see if they know of the car. They are located in DC area.