The two main things you can check in a used box without pulling it apart are shaft play and fluid. Drain the fluid and have a good look at the magnetic drain plug. Fill with close to two quarts of that Pennzoil synchromesh tranny fluid(same stuff as the higher priced GM synchromesh). Shake the input shaft and check the front bearings for play. It should have very little play. This is always the first thing to fail on well cared for boxes. The sycros fail on ones that see track days or just crazy gear slamming drivers. Check the front seal and replace if you can. I've seen several fail and leak enough fluid to cause catastrophic bearing failure in the tranny. Usually happens on long highway runs. Make sure you change the shifter bushings before it goes back in. Check the flywheel over for stress cracks. Make sure you change over the speedo gear, shifter platform, the clutch pivot pin, and bearing release collar. They are all different TR7 to TR8 and made from unobtanium. One more thing. There are differences in the gear boxes. Early five speeds had smaller main shaft bearings and are weaker than the later TR7 and all TR8 boxes. Check the number on the box and look it up. You should try to stay away from the early boxes unless that is your only option. On the bright side, as awful as it will seem pulling the tranny the first time, it will go much smoother and quicker the second time if needed. I was able to do them in the race car in well under 2 hours. The last one I did on my buddies street car took closer to 10, because everything I pulled apart needed extra attention. There was a mismatch of TR7 and TR8 shifter and clutch pivot pieces that needed to be straightened out. Hydraulics needed rebuilding, and that huge exhaust was in my way. Add to that, the owner of the car wanted to "help".