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Tips
Tips

Pulling the engine

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JonnyRotten

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I was thinking of pulling the engine on a 60TR3A.Im not rebuilding the engine,I just want to clean it up and paint engine compartment.Is there anything I should be aware off,or are there any tips I should know?Should I pull the tranny with the engine,and if not is it a pain reattaching engine to tranny?
 
Much easier to pull the engine and transmission as an assembly. Also, even though it's more trouble, if you take the front apron off, it's a breeze to yank out the whole assembly. Less chance of messing up fresh paint when you put it all back in.
 
I went through this last year during disassembly of my 3A - as long as you are pulling the front apron off, I'd pull the whole thing out as one assembly. Just be slow as you ease the engine out, one tight area is right behind the engine where the gas pedal assembly runs.

I'm not sure I'd want to pull the engine without the apron off, but I guess it can be done - but I'd for sure have that transmission off in that case.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Im not rebuilding the engine,I just want to clean it up and paint engine compartment[/QUOTE]

I know I'm lazy, but really?
 
JonnyRotten said:
THe steering column looks like a tight fit,should it be removed first?
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No, I didn't need to when I pulled everything out - but the apron was off.
 
Since you asked for tips,here's one from an electrician. Go to your local electrical supply house and buy a book of wire markers. A lot of people do not know these exist but we have used them forever. They are self adhesive strips with numbers on them. Put one on the terminal and one on the wire. It will save you a lot of trouble when you start putting things back together.
 
While we're on this topic, what are the best lifting points for the motor? I see the factory parts diagram shows a "lifting eye" on the front on the engine and a "lifting block" on the rear, but my engine has neither. Any other ideas that have worked well for folks in the past?
 
Hatman said:
While we're on this topic, what are the best lifting points for the motor? I see the factory parts diagram shows a "lifting eye" on the front on the engine and a "lifting block" on the rear, but my engine has neither. Any other ideas that have worked well for folks in the past?
Click to expand...

Take the valve cover off, and use two of the head bolts (chain link under the nut).

Or, you can take grade 8 bolts through the links, and locate them where the lifting eyes attach to the block.
 
Rhodyspit75 said:
Since you asked for tips,here's one from an electrician. Go to your local electrical supply house and buy a book of wire markers. A lot of people do not know these exist but we have used them forever. They are self adhesive strips with numbers on them. Put one on the terminal and one on the wire. It will save you a lot of trouble when you start putting things back together.
Click to expand...

This is a really good idea / tip!
 
It looks like Jonny is sliding down that slippery slope to a total frame-off restoration. :yesnod:
grin.gif
:hammer:

Hey Jonny, over at Tony's we've pulled bodies off of TRs in about an hour and a half... :smile:
 
JonnyRotten said:
Im going to pull tranny with motor.I have an overdrive tranny is there anything different about removel
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Not really, other than the extra weight and some wires to remove. Some folks like to remove the solenoid first, but I leave it on.
 
I would be careful of the overdrive solenoid bracket. I've never had a problem with it in pulling a TR engine but I've seen a number of them broken on used overdrive units.

Scott
 
Hey Johnny:

If you don't yet have a engine hoist, Harbor Freight has a 1-Ton Folding hoist for $89.99 through 3/24/10 with a downloadable coupon you can get here:

https://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/displayPage.do?pageFile=magurl1.html

I'm sure it's not up to everyday use in a commercial shop, and probably isn't strong enough to hoist huge diesel engines, but the reviews over at the Garage Journal seem to be mostly positive and I'm sure it's strong enough for use with our LBCs. I'm picking one up this weekend.
 
Thought I'd follow up on my previous post:

Pulling the engine: As you can see from the pics below, I had most of the ancillary bits off the engine -- starter, generator, intake & exhaust manifolds. Left the fuel pump and distributor in place. Steering box & column was removed for a rebuild, which gave me a bit more wiggle room. Completely removed the rear trans mount. Set the hoist chain so the front of the engine was tilted up at a 20-degree angle or so. The only tough part was the bellhousing where the starter resides was getting hung up on the exhaust downpipe, but some wiggling and adjusting got me past that. Having a "lift lever" type of device would be handy, but I managed without it. Having someone else to sit inside the car to help guide the transmission would also be a good idea, but I managed on my own. I'll be sure to have an assistant handy when I'm putting it back in.

Harbor Freight engine hoist: Picked this up at my local store for $89.95 (see coupon link above). I'm impressed with the build quality; a few paint runs, but the welds all look good and the holes line up, etc. The supplied hardware was of good quality and none was missing. The lower legs fold up just in front of the hydraulic cylinder, so you end up with the lift being about 24" deep for storage. Unless you're using a lift daily in a commercial setting or yanking motors much bigger than the engines in our LBC's, I can't see how you can go wrong for 90 bucks.

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I hate to ask obvious questions,but ARE YOU NUTS????If you want to overhaul it fine,but to do the bay and detail things, just pull off the manifolds and all the bits that will obstruct the process.Dont pull a motor out just to clean it!!
I have seen a lot of cars,that were disabled for decades due to poorly planned and unnecessary tinkering.Use your time wisely since spring is just about here and you might want to be driving the old girl!!
MD(mad dog)
 
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