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Tips

pulling engine

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69tr

Jedi Trainee
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I am getting ready to pull the engine. When I removed the pistons I found that the crank was scuffed. I am going to get the the crank turned, the engine checked and do any necessary machine work on it.

The new cam sprocket, chain and tensioner arrived yesterday. When I get the machine work completed I will order bearings and rings.

It has been a loooong time since I have done a rebuild. Maybe it is like riding a bicycle.

Is there anything different or special about these engines that I need to look out for.

I am going to pull the engine without the transmission since I am not going to do anything to the trans at this time.

I will keep you posted and probably be asking for more advice.

Thanks, Pete
 
Pulling the engine without the tranny will make it difficult to reinstall (my opinion). I think it will be a bear to try and get the engine mated back up with the input shaft.
Good luck with your rebuild.
 
Gliderman8 said:
Pulling the engine without the tranny will make it difficult to reinstall (my opinion). I think it will be a bear to try and get the engine mated back up with the input shaft.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Click to expand...

I agree, though my experience is with a TR4A. I would pull the engine without the tranny, then remove the tranny separately. You can then either mate them back up before reinstalling (easier to do), or put the engine back, then mate the trans up (easier getting the engine back in the bay). I believe you are going to need to remove the trans tunnel cover no matter how you pull the engine, so it really doesn't mean much extra work. While you have the trans out, probably a good time to replace the rear mount.
 
Thanks. I did some reading after I posted and it seems that it would be easier to pull engine with trans attached.

Any other hints appreciated.
 
69tr said:
Any other hints appreciated.
Click to expand...

Get one of those devices that lets you tilt the engine as you are removing/installing it.

Good time to check over the clutch, pressure place, throwout bearing, etc.

If the bushings in your accelerator shaft need replacement, it will be a good time to do that job.
 
I would check the clutch components and unless they look virtually brand new, I would replace them. You don't want to have to pull the motor again within a few years. Buy the upgraded clutch. I don't have all of the components part numbers, but I bought mine from Scott Harper at Team Triumph in Warren OH.
 
Pull engine and trans. together. Be sure to remove shifter or better yet the top shifter cover from the trans before pulling. Makes its a lot easier to reinstall. Remove starter if you leave the exhaust manifold on.

Marv
 
If it is the budget, get cam bearings installed in block. I am glad that I did it.

Jim
 
All advice noted and appreciated.

It might take a little longer but I want to replace or repair any thing that I can while I have the engine out.

I also hope to clean up the engine bay some while there is plenty of room it there.
 
The engine is just about ready to come out. I just need to get some help to lift the hood off and remove the shifter. I will pick up an engine hoist at my brother-in-laws tomorrow.

I cannot get the shifter off. The book says to remove the bolt, loosen the locknuts and then push down and turn the cap. There is no room to push down on the cap. I can push down and turn the piece directly under the cap but that does not seem to loosen anything up.

Any advice?
 
They can sometimes be a bear to get off, due to dissimilar metal corrosion between the aluminum shift housing and the steel cap.

There were several different styles, not all of them had the slots for "push and turn". I would start by removing the locknuts entirely (if that is what you have), and the studs as well, if you can. Or the bolts if that is what it has. Then you can try twisting the cap to work it loose (big channel-locks, pipe wrench, etc.), or try to drive it upwards with a punch in the bolt holes and/or a chisel under the lower edge.

If worst comes to worst, just leave the shifter and remove the top cover from the gearbox. I would suggest covering the opening with cardboard or similar, to be sure no dirt gets inside. Then if you want, either resume the attack on the shift cap with the cover on the bench, or just put it back and cross your fingers after the other work is done.
 
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