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Pulling Engine
- Thread starter Brakin80
- Start date
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GregW
Yoda
Offline
The shop manual goes over this pretty thoroughly, but I did it differently. I removed the head and used 4 of the head studs (2 in front, 2 in back) to attach a tilt thing to. Using 4 hang points, I felt I had better control. I used the same studs to re-install the motor, then put a fresh set of ARP studs on.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
I have a fixture I made up (from 2" angle-iron) that bolts to the top of the rocker stands, and I've lifted out engine and transmission together several times using it.
Only thing I'd really want to caution you about, is taking great care around the front shroud (bodywork surrounding the engine compartment) as it is made of aluminum and not very forgiving of any weight (including hands and elbows) placed upon it.
Only thing I'd really want to caution you about, is taking great care around the front shroud (bodywork surrounding the engine compartment) as it is made of aluminum and not very forgiving of any weight (including hands and elbows) placed upon it.
mjobrien
Jedi Trainee
Offline
I would suggest getting a engine hoist leveler. It allows you to change the angle as you move further into or out of the chassis. Just remember to keep the crank towards the back of the engine so you clear the engine hoist itself.
I did use the head studs as well, once with the head on and another time with the head off but used older studs as not to bend the new ones. Also used some sockets over the studs to keep the mount points up against the head and keep the bolts in tension rather than a bending moment.
Michael.
55 BN1
I did use the head studs as well, once with the head on and another time with the head off but used older studs as not to bend the new ones. Also used some sockets over the studs to keep the mount points up against the head and keep the bolts in tension rather than a bending moment.
Michael.
55 BN1