• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Pulling Engine

Share this page

The shop manual goes over this pretty thoroughly, but I did it differently. I removed the head and used 4 of the head studs (2 in front, 2 in back) to attach a tilt thing to. Using 4 hang points, I felt I had better control. I used the same studs to re-install the motor, then put a fresh set of ARP studs on.
 
I have a fixture I made up (from 2" angle-iron) that bolts to the top of the rocker stands, and I've lifted out engine and transmission together several times using it.

Only thing I'd really want to caution you about, is taking great care around the front shroud (bodywork surrounding the engine compartment) as it is made of aluminum and not very forgiving of any weight (including hands and elbows) placed upon it.
 
I would suggest getting a engine hoist leveler. It allows you to change the angle as you move further into or out of the chassis. Just remember to keep the crank towards the back of the engine so you clear the engine hoist itself.

I did use the head studs as well, once with the head on and another time with the head off but used older studs as not to bend the new ones. Also used some sockets over the studs to keep the mount points up against the head and keep the bolts in tension rather than a bending moment.

Michael.
55 BN1
 
Back
Top