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Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi all,
Hail dents are often a serious problem, usually a repaint of the car is the only way to properly fix them.
The "paintless repair" method works in some cases with older cars, but generally not. Your TR3 has 18 gauge mild steel body panels.
The paintless method works best with modern, thinner 22 gauge high tensile steel parts (like the front fender off my old Aerostar van, a big part that I could literally hold with 1 finger, weighed maybe 2 lbs total!).
With mild steel, heat is more likely to work to reduce stretching. Mild steel moves toward a heat source, such as a welding torch. The hotter the source, the faster and more it moves, the more shrinkage you can effect. A heat gun in front of the dent and something cold behind *might* work to some degree, but I'd be surprised if it completely removed the dent. And, there is danger of damaging paint with a heat source, of course.
With modern auto body high tensile steel, the metal moves away from a heat source. So gas welding, in particular, can be a problem because heat is applied over a fairly large area. This type of steel is also doesn't work well with a hammer. But, that's not the type of steel you are dealing with in your car.
Personally, I think the suggestions to use a hammer and dolly are your best bet, but may also need some heat to help shrink the metal. There are special types of hammers, too, that shrink metal, but these will more than likely mar the surface.
Hammering is an art and needs to be done slowly and gently. Think of it as the metal wanting to return to its original shape, and the hammering is being done to help it get there. (This is different from hammering out a fabrication piece, where you are creating a new shape.)
Before using any hammer techniques, be certain there is absolutely no undercoating or any dirt, etc. on the back side. Anything there will transfer through as a high spot on the front side, after a few taps with the hammer.
Unfortunately, many hammering techniques will stretch metal, which is the opposite of what you really need since the metal is already stretched by the hail. Working in combination with heat may be the best. You are likely looking at using heat, hammers, fillers, sanding and, finally, a repaint to really "do it right". But, you might be able to reduce the dents and make them less noticible, without going to the full extent of a repaint.
Good luck!
Alan
Hail dents are often a serious problem, usually a repaint of the car is the only way to properly fix them.
The "paintless repair" method works in some cases with older cars, but generally not. Your TR3 has 18 gauge mild steel body panels.
The paintless method works best with modern, thinner 22 gauge high tensile steel parts (like the front fender off my old Aerostar van, a big part that I could literally hold with 1 finger, weighed maybe 2 lbs total!).
With mild steel, heat is more likely to work to reduce stretching. Mild steel moves toward a heat source, such as a welding torch. The hotter the source, the faster and more it moves, the more shrinkage you can effect. A heat gun in front of the dent and something cold behind *might* work to some degree, but I'd be surprised if it completely removed the dent. And, there is danger of damaging paint with a heat source, of course.
With modern auto body high tensile steel, the metal moves away from a heat source. So gas welding, in particular, can be a problem because heat is applied over a fairly large area. This type of steel is also doesn't work well with a hammer. But, that's not the type of steel you are dealing with in your car.
Personally, I think the suggestions to use a hammer and dolly are your best bet, but may also need some heat to help shrink the metal. There are special types of hammers, too, that shrink metal, but these will more than likely mar the surface.
Hammering is an art and needs to be done slowly and gently. Think of it as the metal wanting to return to its original shape, and the hammering is being done to help it get there. (This is different from hammering out a fabrication piece, where you are creating a new shape.)
Before using any hammer techniques, be certain there is absolutely no undercoating or any dirt, etc. on the back side. Anything there will transfer through as a high spot on the front side, after a few taps with the hammer.
Unfortunately, many hammering techniques will stretch metal, which is the opposite of what you really need since the metal is already stretched by the hail. Working in combination with heat may be the best. You are likely looking at using heat, hammers, fillers, sanding and, finally, a repaint to really "do it right". But, you might be able to reduce the dents and make them less noticible, without going to the full extent of a repaint.
Good luck!
Alan
