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Pulling Decals Off

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DanNagy

DanNagy

Jedi Trainee
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I am preparing to pull the decals off of the TR7 because they are old and cracking. After they are pulled off, I'll try buffing out the paint. My questions are:

1. How should I take these off? When I bought one new, I just used a hair dryer to take the front Triumph decal off, but it was new from the dealership and the glue was fresh. Perhaps there is a solvent to use? Also, the pinstripping is a decal and must be removed. Same method?
2. Door edge guards, rubber, were pasted on the diagonal door crease. How can I take those off safely?

As always, thanks for your help.
 
I would try the heat first. Sometimes the chemicals used for decal removal can damage the paint if not used carefully.
 
MEK /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Dan, try this product, Island Girl Pink. Pink is a
cleaning lotion that is mixed with water to create greater
or lessor strengths. Potent mixtures left on for a long
time, like a number of hours, could ill affect paint.
But put on for shorter spurts of time, like maybe, say,
30-60 minutes, it will eat glue, soften overspray paint and
the like. The moment this product is diluted with water like with a very sloppy wet rag, a garden hose or poured over from a cup, the product is completely neutralized.

So stronger or longer, depending upon need. They also have another product that is stronger, but pink is a little gentler and probably, therefore, safer to use on your paint.

Actually is good for rubber; plastics, say like your dash, etc. Not going to break the bank, but a little pricey for
the amount, like 16 oz. bottle.

Check this web site and read on Island Girl Pink and other
products available.

https://www.islandgirlproducts.com/igpinkpage.htm
 
Okay, I read about the Island Girl Pink, and it looks like it is worth trying. It says it also removes oxidation. Have you used this to condition the paint on your car as well?

You mentioned rubber, but it didn't say anything about using it on rubber. Have you done this? Will this condition the rubber bumpers on the TR7?

Finally, the gallon size is a whopping $118, but the 16oz size is only $18. How much do you think I'll need?
 
Howdy!

Believe it or not, I've had amazing luck with good ol' WD40. It takes a little bit of effort, but it takes off any residue and doesn't remotely affect the paint.

Dean
 
Buy the 16 oz bottle because a little goes a long way.
Smells nice, like bubble gum or something, but will
dry your hands somewhat. Gloves might be good, but not
so toxic if used without. Just don't get into your eyes.

Regarding oxidation, it is used more readily for
boats, so the oxidation referred to may be fiberglass
and the like. The rubber thing is not its strongest
point, though I have used it for such.

Try buying a small bottle as well of Silk and Satin.
Again, small bottle. When you clean, say, your dash
pad, you spray a thin -- repeat thin layer of the Silk
and Satin and it will add UV protection and when dried,
a nice little shine, till you put your fingerprints in
it, anyway. Also, it is made to immediately nullify
any undesired effect from the Island Girl by neutralizing it.
I do not recommend this for oxidized paint, but in the
Island Girl lineup of products, I think you will find
they have a product that is for car paints.

When you order, ask for a DVD on that product. Haven't
used it, but it sure looks good, and I do like the results
I've gotten with the Pink and another, maybe Blue or something. If you need to know the other exactly, let me know, I'll grab it from the garage. Don't know the effect on old glued labels, but I almost removed pinstriping; decals and the like from my boat when I really didn't want to. Neutralized it in time, but if I wanted them off, it would have been easy.

Hope this helps,
 
Buy the 16 oz bottle because a little goes a long way.
Smells nice, like bubble gum or something, but will
dry your hands somewhat. Gloves might be good, but not
so toxic if used without. Just don't get into your eyes.

Regarding oxidation, it is used more readily for
boats, so the oxidation referred to may be fiberglass
and the like. The rubber thing is not its strongest
point, though I have used it for such.

Try buying a small bottle as well of Silk and Satin.
Again, small bottle. When you clean, say, your dash
pad, you spray a thin -- repeat thin layer of the Silk
and Satin and it will add UV protection and when dried,
a nice little shine, till you put your fingerprints in
it, anyway. Also, it is made to immediately nullify
any undesired effect from the Island Girl by neutralizing it.
I do not recommend this for oxidized paint, but in the
Island Girl lineup of products, I think you will find
they have a product that is for car paints.

When you order, ask for a DVD on that product. Haven't
used it, but it sure looks good, and I do like the results
I've gotten with the Pink and another, maybe Blue or something. If you need to know the other exactly, let me know, I'll grab it from the garage. Don't know the effect on old glued labels, but I almost removed pinstriping; decals and the like from my boat when I really didn't want to. Neutralized it in time, but if I wanted them off, it would have been easy.

If the Pink doesn't get it done, consider the more
agressive version .. the Blue or whatever. If you read
on the products, you might be able to find it. Just be
a little more careful with it. It is certainly way less
toxic to paint than anything else to remove overspray and
the like.

Hope this helps,
 
Yeah, I saw the blue stuff. I'll see what happens with the pink.

The WD40 sounds promising, but I also want to clean up the plastic trim on the car, and try it out on the rubber bumpers. If it doesn't work, I can always paint them.
 
Opps, sorry for the double post. When you get the
Island Girl, like try a small amount mixed with a little
water, like a cap full. You can apply with a white
paper towel...ink will run from printed paper towels.

Small amounts can also be mixed and put into a plastic
bottle sprayer.

Good luck,
 
Okay, thanks. I ordered it yesterday, and was surprised how inexpensive it was to ship. Hopefully I'll have it next week.
 
If the Island Girl isn't exactly what you hoped for re: adhesive removal....

What I use in my guitar repair shop (where finish conservation is a religious sacrament) is V.M.&P. Naptha. This should be available in pints, quarts and half-gallons at the local hardware store. (Not in California anymore, apparently.) It smells like paint thinner -- evaporates rapidly -- removes all kinds of oil, wax, grease and adhesive, including chewing gum -- and is ENTIRELY harmless to all known finishes, including lacquer. It won't remove oxidation and all that other miracle stuff that the Island Girl is reputed to do, but it WILL remove all traces of any peel-and-stick adhesive, of any age.

If you only want to buy "just a little bit," go to the tobacco store and get a tin of "Ronsonol" or whatever they are selling as "lighter fluid." It's the same stuff in small, handy squirt-spout tins.
 
Alright, very good. I now have a back-up plan. This probably would have been less expensive, but I do need something for the plastic and rubber. Perhaps I'll try both and compare. I'll take some before and after pics with the Island Girl and post them. We will see how well it works for me.
 
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