protecting metal during restoration

[74WannaB]

Here's my problem. Becuase of all the normal distractions in life i.e. work, family, bills the restoration of my B often has to go on hold for sometimes months at a time.

My question is what is a good coating to protect recently finished body work until the whole car is ready for primer?

 

[JPSmit]

I'd suggest either rattle can primer - which you can pretty much wipe off with solvent when it is tome to epoxy prime - or WD40 which leaves a kind of shellac on the metal.

 

[Bayless]

If you can finish a large enough section to justify mixing it, I would go ahead with the epoxy because it's permanent. If you are able to only do a small section at a time then the rattle can is all right. Keep in mind though that the stuff will absorb water vapor and the metal can rust right out from under it over time.

 

[DrEntropy]

Ron, when I did the B it was as a "panel repair" job. IOW one section at a time. I found it no more hassle to mix and apply the epoxy primer that way than if mixing it to shoot an entire car. The stuff has a "pot life" and you only want to mix as much as you can use in an hour anyway. Once that stuff is on the metal, NOTHING is getting to it either. I could count on not being worried over leaving it outside for days before getting back to it. I'd be for not making the job more complicated than it needs to be by adding "extra steps" like pre-primer primer and having to wipe it off before putting on a "real" one.


...just my odd opinion.

 

[74WannaB]

Thanks, I'm thinking about going the epoxy route

 

[mccalebr]

I take the 'other' approach...use Acid 8 primer and will before final paint probably have some stripping to do and then epoxy.

The reason is simple, I work a few hours each day on the car. The task I'm on right now is into it's second week, bringing the fenders, hood, and cowl of a square bodied Sprite into a single tilt-forward front clip. I cut, grind, prep, weld, and prime a little every day. The clip is more or less done and I'm working on the firewall portion of the car now...getting an acceptable gap between the firewall/nose and the lower fenders/outer sills. Last job every day is to prime what I've been working on. With the high temps and humidity the bare metal will rust overnight. If I took the time to mix, apply, and clean up epoxy instead of grabbing the can of gray primer, I'd have little or no time for doing the main work.

Ray

 

[vette]

Hello there. It's been quite a while since I've posted to the forum. during summer months I don't sit at a computer much. Plus this year I started restoring my Healey so the shop time is more rewarding than computer time for me.
In regards to your question, I have stored about 5 cars in the last ten or twelve years, each car taking about 2 years.
when I have bare metal or bodywork needing covered to protect til my next work time. I use a spray can primer. But you must me careful what you use. Some of these spraycan products may not be compatible with what you use for finish paint or even what you use next on top of it. forget about using something that you think you will have to take off befor the next step. that is definately too much work and you have the risk of not getting it all off. Don't ever put something on your car that is not compatible with the next step. So I use a spray can of Self Etching Primer. The brand I can get around here is from Transtar. It is compatible with every type of automotive paint I know of. I've even used it immediately under base colour when spraying base/clear allowing to set up for as little as 20 to 30 minutes. I've needed to do this at times when my spraying showed a flaw and I would stop immediately, let the paint set up, sand the flaw out, dress it up immediately with the spray can of self etching primer and then after about 20minutes smoothing that primer with a scuff pad then continuing the paint job. My point is that this is useable with everything. And it will hold your work till your next encounter. If you think you will be away from your work for quite a period, 'weeks', or if you have a high moisture or humidity situation, just make sure you give it 2 or 3 good coats. This stuff is rather expense, $14 or $15 a can. But that is what good products run. Don't by any means use a spray can paint from a hardware store. Most of that stuff is enamel based and any other top coat paint except another enamel will eat it up and lift it when you try to paint over it. Even some topcoat enamels will lift hardware store paints. Transtar, Self-Etching Primer in a spray can goes on quick, nits strong and hard, drys fast and can be used under any other paint.
Well good luck. Dave C.

 

[mccalebr]

Good post, Dave, I'm with you on this one. I mentioned above that I use Acid 8, it is a good, professional quality, self etching primer.

I was by the Auto Paint Specialty store today and picked up a couple cans, $15 each...not cheap, but good.

As Dave cautions, you need to insure that it is compatible with your other products.

Ray

 

[lawguy]

If you want to wait a few weeks before priming, I would use Jasco Prep and Prime or another phosphoric acid metal preparation. On bare steel, it forms a few microns thick phosphoric oxide coating that will not rust- it is fragile, though and won't stand up to weathering. Inside, however it will prevent flash rust and will take off light flash rust if it has already happened.

 

[mccalebr]

...I would use Jasco Prep and Prime or another phosphoric acid metal preparation...

Good tip.

I use Metal Ready from the folks at POR-15 regularly; great stuff. I bought a gallon ($26) and it goes a loooooooong way. I've been told the phosphoric acid at Lowes is just as good and cheaper. A quick wipe off of the dry powder and you're ready to POR-15 it.

Ray