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Hi Matthew,

Nice xmas present!

I believe there are some repro engine mounts that are made incorrectly and sit the engine up higher than it should be. The gap between the buffer block and the metal looks quite big in your video. See here: https://www.healey6.com/Technical/Engine Mounts.pdf

Also, the PO of my car rebuilt the engine and it was in a very sad state after only 2000 miles because he used the standard oil filter and the bypass valve in the housing was stuck open with carbon crud so the bearings got unfiltered oil. If you are keeping the old filter for originality reasons then it'd be a good idea to check the bypass valve and make sure it is seating 100% and that the gallery in behind it is completely clean. The spin-on filters are a much better solution as they eliminate this valve altogether and also have a drainback valve. It is also possible to fit a spin on filter inside the original housing with a little bit of engineering.

oil filter 2.JPG

oil filter1.JPG

Andy.
 
Thanks everyone. Some really good advice. I didn't know about the engine mounts. They do look high and there were no shims in the old ones. Would I be right in assuming that I should wait until the engine is installed to check and adjust them, or can I do it now?
Also, I would like to keep the original oil filter. How do I find the bypass valve to make sure it's seated properly?
Thanks again
Matthew
 
Hi Matthew,

Check the distance across between the engine mount bolt holes on the frame and then on the mounts attached to the engine. I'd guess that because the mounts are on an angle, the brackets will tend to move towards the centreline if the engine sits higher so the bolts may not line up with the chassis. Easier to correct the height issue now rather than after the engine is down the hole.

Here is the difference between a reproduction mount on the right and a 50 year old original on the left. I'm not sure whether the original has sagged or whether the repro is badly made. Possibly a bit of both. Either way, there is your half inch gap and the easiest cure may be to simply slot the bolt holes to lower the engine down.
DSC09785.JPG

Re the oil filter valve- it is in the cast aluminium part that the filter cannister screws onto. There is a steel disc held on by a wire clip to get off first then you'll see a 3/4" steel ring pressed into the housing and the valve is part of/behind that. Get a piece of fuel hose or similar and try and blow through the valve- you shouldn't be able to even a little and it should re-seat cleanly if you press the plunger in. Take the housing off and blow it out with the air compressor and solvent if you haven't already.

Andy.
 
Thanks Andy
I'll check all that today. I did clean the oil filter housing well, but it's certainly worth another check. Good use of holiday time I reckon. I fitted the gearbox yesterday and as soon as I get a clutch I'll put the engine in.
Cheers
Matthew
 
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