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Progress Up-date - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

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BizJetGuy

Jedi Hopeful
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Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

Broke away this evening and made some repairs to the L/H Seat frame. Since I had the welder out, I decided to go ahead and brace up the the shell so I can safely (somewhat) remove the sills/rockers/floorpans without having to worry too much about undesireable flexing and twisting.

Baby steps...

284387-IMG_0021Resized.jpg
 

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Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

Looks like progress to me by gosh.
 
Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

Great idea Mike! My compliments to you on the idea. Now your doors will fit after all the body repairs are made! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif PJ
 
Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

Looks good. I'll want to see much more as time goes on as I need to do the same. I would add a diagonal across the door though.Your frame will keep door openings parallel but sagging can still occur. Run a diagonal from top of jamb to near sill area.
What did you use to grind away the paint & rust? What did you use to cut away the old rusty metal?
 
Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

[ QUOTE ]
What did you use to grind away the paint & rust? What did you use to cut away the old rusty metal?

[/ QUOTE ]

I've been using a wire wheel on my 4" grinder for the big stuff (which reminds me, I need to get another wheel) and a wire cup on my 90* die grinder for the smaller spots and tight areas. To cut out rusty metal I have just been using a cutoff wheel on my 90* die grinder. Everytime I go into Home Depot or Northern Tool I pick up a pack of 5 or so just so I don't run out in the middle of a job.

I'm not as concerned as I probably should be on the sagging since I'm not going the rotisserie route. The shell is probably going to stay supported on the main frame rails so my main concern is folding. That's why I put the door supports as high as I did. That's a good idea though - I really hadn't thought much about that until you mentioned it.

Edit - When removing panels, I try to cut out what I can with a spot weld cutter or just drill it out, depending on how I want to use the existing base metal. I'll use a spot weld cutter if the panel I want to remove is spot welded on top - that way I can keep the base metal solid for welding. If the panel to be removed is under the base metal, I'll just completely drill out the spot weld which leaves a good hole in which to plug weld when the replacement panel is installed.

The PO had already started on taking out the R/H Floorpan when I bought the project so I'll take no credit for that work.
 
Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

Good job, many forget to do this and then wonder why their doors won't fit.
 
Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

My four favorite tools for removing rust/rot and prepping new panels:

1. Large flat bolster chisel from The Eastwood Company. It has a huge orange guard on it so you dont whack your hand. Worth every dime.

2. Air powered cutoff tool (aka wizzer wheel). $19 from Harbor Freight. I've probably spent more on cutoff wheels that the tool itself. It refuses to die.

3. Spotweld cutter, also from The Eastwood Company.

4. 4in angle grinder. I bought a decent unit from Sears, about $50.

Forgot about #5, air nibbler also from Harbor Freight; about $39. Works great for trimming floorpans.

Wear safety glasses and gloves whenever working around old rusty metal. BTDT, got my share of stitches and tetanous shots.
 
Re: Progress Update - Shell "Anti-flex" Supports

Oh, and FWIW, when replacing my sills, I bought a pair of Honda Accord scissor jacks from the local junkyard ($5 ea). I put one under each side of the center crossmember and jacked it from underneath to support it.

Do one side at a time and you should be fine.
 
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