• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Progress GB

Share this page

GB1

GB1

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Finally got the cam in and the timing set 1.5 degree's off and it is forwarded/advanced. It took some time, but is finally done.

IMHO, it is the most time consuming part of the an engine rebuild.

Doc, I McGyvered the crank shim with a fender washer and an arbor bit, alot of sanding and dremel.

Patrick
 
How in the world did you turn over a tight new engine enough to get the timeing set. I been pondering that and kind of think I did it after I put the engine in the car.

I now have flywheels up on 1/4 which of course is numbers 1 and 4 at the top and the geared protion of the dizzy drive installed correctly but this engine is nice and tight.
 
Jack, timing between the crank and cam gears, when the chain is installed. Magentic based dial indicator, etc. if you wish to hear process, I can explain, not an eyeball on the dot to dot, when installing the chain before head.

But my index finger is a bit worn from spinning the flywheel hehehe.
 
Okay Jack:

You have got me going, this is needed when installing a different cam a Kent 276 in the case here.

A magnetic base is installed at the middle of the first piston with a fixed referene point. TDC is then determined by this and a 360 degree wheel installed on the crank (that marks TDC). After TDC is found, the flywheel is is moved .10 (on the dial inicator) on the piston in both directions to ensure TDC is measured properly matched degrees on the wheel. The numbers should be equal. If not there is an adjustment needed.

A pushrod is installed in the #1 intake valve slot. The magnetic base set up on her trued. Engine is cranked until the valve is fully opened. Then .10 degee each way. The total of the two measurements on the 360 degree wheel is added and divided by two to get the avearges. Offset shims are placed on the cam woodruff key to adjust.

The advance is the measured by the set limit, in most a series it is 110 degrees ATDC, but it mine being reground it is set at 103 degres ATDC and with all of this I am running 104.5 ATC.

This is an ongoing fun process what is necessary with modified cams. I use the practice whenever replacing a cam and always have my brother Peter in tow.

Finally, this process was taught to us by Bill Cobb over twenty/thirthy years ago.
 
I love it!!! That mag base dial indicator is your friend. I'm almost embarrassed to admit: my wheel says "Mr. Gasket" on it!

...hey, thirty-odd years ago it was free!... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
By the way, guys, GB's dial-indicator method for getting a non-stock cam into an "A" engine is the *only* way to install a cam (even a stock one) in a 1500.
The 1500 does not come with proper timing marks or "factory dots" (mine had various scratches and punch marks from previous owners....none were correct).
 
hehee! Yup. ALWAYS make ~your own~ reference marks!
 
My goodness guys, I think there is something lacking in my education. What class covered that, weeeee.

When I installed an upgraded cam I just did it the same old way and played with the dizzy a bit to get it on. Seemed to work fine but then maybe it wasn't so fine after all.
 
Back
Top