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Procedure for cylinder head removal and re-installation - BJ8

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SteveHall64Healey

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Gents, I've read a few posts on this forum re this topic, but haven't found anything that brings it all together. Does anyone know of a complete procedure for the removal and re-installation of a BJ8 cylinder head?
thanks,
steve
 
Have you checked the Bentley service manual? While it's been decades since I used one for the actual procedure, I seem to recall them being written for step by step service routines.
 
SteveHall64Healey said:
Gents, I've read a few posts on this forum re this topic, but haven't found anything that brings it all together. Does anyone know of a complete procedure for the removal and re-installation of a BJ8 cylinder head?
thanks,
steve
Click to expand...

Drain the coolant take off the rocker cover, rocker shaft, push rods carbs, manifolds , etc etc . unbolt the head and practice your weight lifting abilities while leaning over the wings . Its not complicated .
 
Healey Nut said:
Drain the coolant take off the rocker cover, rocker shaft, push rods carbs, manifolds , etc etc . unbolt the head and practice your weight lifting abilities while leaning over the wings . Its not complicated .
Click to expand...

Only thing to remember is unbolt the head in the sequence in the workshop manual (and eat your spinach). Frankly, I find it easier to use a couple of engine lifting brackets like these https://www.ebay.com/itm/MGA-MGB-MG-MIDGET-SPRITE-AH3000-ENGINE-LIFTING-BRACKETS-/380328653698 and attach them to a couple of cylinder head bolts with a length of chain between the brackets and use an engine hoist to lift the cylinder head. Saves your back and helps unstuck stubborn heads. Just make sure the pulling angle is straight up or the head will bind on the studs. Before you take the hood off, drill a couple of 1/16" holes in each of the hinges as an index mark. When it's time to reattach the hood, insert the drill in the holes to properly line up the hood. Saves hours of fun.
 
I'm with Healey Rick,
It is easier if you take the hood off (bonnet). I tend to use a hoist to get the head off, saves straining whilst reaching over.

:cheers:

Bob
 
HealeyRick said:
Go here, there's a 100-6 manual in PDF half way down the page: https://healey6.com/bulletin.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link - I did have a look and it's very similar to the AH3000 manual I have. I have removed and re-installed heads before. I am looking for the bolt removal sequence - as opposed to the general knowledge guideline that you remove in the opposite order specified in the installation bolt tightening sequence ...
thanks Steve
 
SteveHall64Healey said:
Thanks for the link - I did have a look and it's very similar to the AH3000 manual I have. I have removed and re-installed heads before. I am looking for the bolt removal sequence - as opposed to the general knowledge guideline that you remove in the opposite order specified in the installation bolt tightening sequence ...
thanks Steve
Click to expand...

Look at Fig A.12 in section A.18. It shows the tightening sequence. To loosen the head, start with Number 16 and loosen each nut in reverse order back to 1, a few turns at a time.
 
I've just competed this job on a 3000 and you don't take the bonnet off, or use the engine hoist. Get two metal bars, I used 1" sq tubing a little narrower than the width of the bonnet. Drill two holes in each to match up with the studs that hold on the valve gear. With the valve gear removed, bolt on the two bars and with a helper on the other side of the car, lift off the head. You can put it back the same way. I have used this method on several cars with heavy cylinder heads.

On a side note, make sure all the nuts and threads are clean and that they don't bind up, and make sure you have the correct heavy,,, thicker washers under the nuts. You should remove the studs from the block to aid cleaning the surface, screw them back in and just tighten them a little, no need to go crazy, or you can crack the block, the ones on the front and rear are the easiest to crack.

Good luck
 
busybrit said:
I've just competed this job on a 3000 and you don't take the bonnet off, or use the engine hoist. Get two metal bars, I used 1" sq tubing a little narrower than the width of the bonnet. Drill two holes in each to match up with the studs that hold on the valve gear. With the valve gear removed, bolt on the two bars and with a helper on the other side of the car, lift off the head. You can put it back the same way. I have used this method on several cars with heavy cylinder heads.

On a side note, make sure all the nuts and threads are clean and that they don't bind up, and make sure you have the correct heavy,,, thicker washers under the nuts. You should remove the studs from the block to aid cleaning the surface, screw them back in and just tighten them a little, no need to go crazy, or you can crack the block, the ones on the front and rear are the easiest to crack.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks - sounds like good advice.
Steve
 
Geez, my wife and I just lifted it off. Bonnet in place. Took it to the machine shop and they sent a 20ish kid to get it from the rear of my SUV and he carried it in with one arm. This is not something I'd look forward to doing every day. The best advice I can give is to have a cart very close by (we used her gardening wagon with a couple of short 2x4's to rest it on so we didn't crush my fingers and ruin her nail polish).
TH
 
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