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primer question
- Thread starter Swamp_Fox
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Welcome to the BCF swamp fox.
When I did my car a few years ago in my unheated garage, I waited for the outside air temp to get up to about 50. Then I used my kerosene heater for a few hours to bring the temp. up so it was nice and warm.
I then SHUT IT DOWN as in OFF to avoid any chance of explosion and primed the inner body. Everything turned out OK and I've not noticed any problems.
When I did my car a few years ago in my unheated garage, I waited for the outside air temp to get up to about 50. Then I used my kerosene heater for a few hours to bring the temp. up so it was nice and warm.
I then SHUT IT DOWN as in OFF to avoid any chance of explosion and primed the inner body. Everything turned out OK and I've not noticed any problems.
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MY BAD!!! I didn't pay attention to post count. Welcome to th' Sanctuary, foxy!!
The only issue with colder temps is "sagging"... i.e. runs caused from not flashing because the temp is too low. Primers want to have their "carrier" to escape at a rate to allow smooth surface, too low a temp and they run or "sag" before the thinner is able to escape via evaporation.
The only issue with colder temps is "sagging"... i.e. runs caused from not flashing because the temp is too low. Primers want to have their "carrier" to escape at a rate to allow smooth surface, too low a temp and they run or "sag" before the thinner is able to escape via evaporation.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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If you're priming with a rattle can, it doesn't matter because the primer won't interaxct properly with the paint you're going to put on it.
If you're mixing primer into a parint gun, read the instructions on the saide of the can & it'll tell you the temperatures where you can use the paint.
If you're mixing primer into a parint gun, read the instructions on the saide of the can & it'll tell you the temperatures where you can use the paint.
Britishautobody
Jedi Hopeful
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Well you want the temperature you can get away with or the recommended temps?
Most products are to be used 65deg and up, depending on thickness of coats and time allowed to flash between coats. Warming up a rattle can can be a dangerous experience,I don't recommend it, but I can't tell someone what to do. You can spray primers when it is cold but they don't dry properly regardless if it comes out of the can. What will often happen if primer is not properly dry when top coated is very bad solvent die back and or shrinkage down the road. This may or not be buffed out later. Any time you push a product hard you loose out somewhere, mostly in the end result in durability and quality. Take it from a guy who has pushed every product working in a past production enviroment,I am relearning how to not push products because I now understand what it costs me and my customers.
Most products are to be used 65deg and up, depending on thickness of coats and time allowed to flash between coats. Warming up a rattle can can be a dangerous experience,I don't recommend it, but I can't tell someone what to do. You can spray primers when it is cold but they don't dry properly regardless if it comes out of the can. What will often happen if primer is not properly dry when top coated is very bad solvent die back and or shrinkage down the road. This may or not be buffed out later. Any time you push a product hard you loose out somewhere, mostly in the end result in durability and quality. Take it from a guy who has pushed every product working in a past production enviroment,I am relearning how to not push products because I now understand what it costs me and my customers.
rlwhitetr3b
Jedi Knight
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Vern,
The way I read John-Peter’s was that he was allowing the paint cans to come to room temperature in the house. If he was heating the cans, then…
The way I read John-Peter’s was that he was allowing the paint cans to come to room temperature in the house. If he was heating the cans, then…
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Problem I've found using rattle can primer is that it sometimes isn't "hot" enough for the paint....& I don't mean temperature.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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If the car's inside, spray it with rattle can primer knowing you'll remove it & put real primer on it before painting.
If it's outside, the rattle can primer won't protect it completely - it'll still rust through that.
I use 2-part epoxy primer on everything...protects the body forever & you can do bodywork over it.
If it's outside, the rattle can primer won't protect it completely - it'll still rust through that.
I use 2-part epoxy primer on everything...protects the body forever & you can do bodywork over it.
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Swamp_Fox said:Tony, what would you recommend to hold me over till warmer weather arrives ? John, if I put wd-40 on it what would you use to remove it later on. Thanks for all the help. This is all uncharted territory for me, but I enjoy it and am learning alot
all wd40 does is leave a shellac - so, looked, and here is a discussion, says alcohol, acetone, wax/grease remover
https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-188742.html
abarth69
Jedi Warrior
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I use Picklex20
One step Rust Converter , Rust Inhibitor , primer, metal surface cleaning & conditioning compound for new, rusted or sandblasted metal surfaces (steel and aluminum), Converts rust to a conductive alloy inhibiting further rusting & creeping. Also creates stronger weld joints without spatter
Just do a google search
I get it from these people but there are others also.
www.ashjentech.com
Cheers
Mark
One step Rust Converter , Rust Inhibitor , primer, metal surface cleaning & conditioning compound for new, rusted or sandblasted metal surfaces (steel and aluminum), Converts rust to a conductive alloy inhibiting further rusting & creeping. Also creates stronger weld joints without spatter
Just do a google search
I get it from these people but there are others also.
www.ashjentech.com
Cheers
Mark