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primer or primer sealer.....whats the difference?

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zimmy

zimmy

Jedi Knight
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at this point i havent put any paint
on the car at all....

i was planning on using primer first
while im doing my sanding/filling,
then spray any color showing from the
old paint with sealer, but now im thinking
i should use sealer first, then use the
primer while i finish my sanding.

what do u guys think/know?

i never though paint could be so confusing! :crazyeyes: :wall:
no worrys, im SURE itll all come out good...
i am quite competent after all...haha....z
 
When my master bodyman does one of my cars, he takes it down to bare metal & sprays it with a white epoxy primer - each piece separately so the panel is encased in epoxy.

Then he does his body work

Then he repeats the epoxy primer

Then he sands the car & covers it with a sandable primer in a shade close to what the final paint will be & sands that looking for any issues he might have missed.

After he corrects any of those, then he primes it with another coat of sealer primer tinted like the body & puts the final paint over it.

Long process but none of my cars ever have to be painted again - & they don't rust anymore!
 
Word of caution about tintable sealers. When you add pigment you reduce the sealer's ability to promote good adhesion and reduce bleed. However, I know that there many tintable sealers on the market. I'm not just completely sold on the idea.

It seems Zimmy is interested in a budget paint job that will hold up for several years, but not show quality. So, I'd sand it down to get to some "solid paint" and then do any majors repairs and fiberglass work needed. Then a sealer followed by a high build primer. Block sand with 400/600. Shoot a sealer compatible with your primer and topcoat, and then topcoat.
 
Zimmy, how much are you willing to spend and where are you going to paint the car? I spent too much on my job I believe and though I think it looks good, I could have spent a lot less on a decent job. I have done pretty good with spray can primer like rustoleum and acrylic enamel paint. You gotta rig up a pretty dust free place for the enamel because it takes so long to dry, but you can get a killer shine with it if you know how. Its only one stage. I got fancy with the basecoat and clearcoat, but man all that stuff sure costs. I just saw an old Mustang II that I painted chocolate metalic brown acrylic enamel that way about 12 years ago, pass me on the highway last week and it still looked pretty good from what I could see, though the rest of the car looked ragged. I know it was mine, I can't believe someone still is driving it. 4 speed and v6 from the 70s, I had some good times in that car.
 
I'm doing my car similiar to the way Tony suggested. It is not cheap as epoxy primer is a little costly. We have been using the same epoxy primer throughout the process. We are to the final block sand at this point and will be putting on one more coat of primer then prep for the finish paint and clear. I have went through about a gallon and a half of primer at $75.00 a quart. My paint shop fiquers the final paint will be about $275.00 for paint and clear.

Mark
 
I had over $300 in paint, primer and clearcoat for Miss Agatha.
 
Try $400 for just the Sequoia Cream paint for my TD!
 
Heh, but concorse Miss Agatha ain't.
 
my paint is only $130 not counting primer....
ill probably spray can the primer as so far
im only doing a section at a time....
its slow going doin it all youself.
i got the valance bondod up and ready to paint
today....i think im gonna paint the area behind
the grill black, and use my custom handmade
free grill when im done...
dare to b different!....z
 
Go for it. Tis more fun when they are driveable.
 
I realize that we've diverted a tad from the original (sanding) question and I know nothing about paints - BUT - as the "king of cheap" I spent lots of time looking at budget paint options until I finally realized that after all the work I've done the last place I want to skimp is on paint. No one will see the rings or the bearings I installed but everyone will judge my car on the quality of my paint job.

Not really voting for anything as much as suggesting the very best paint job your budget will allow
 
im doin it myself, and as a self proclaimed perfectionist,
i dont think ill get a better paint job, especially for
around $300! :smile: .....z
 
Budget says Bugsy will get the Rustoleum Treatment $29.95 budget job. I was happy with the way hood and fenders turned out last year. Great shine and smooth even without buffing and wet sanding. Since it was a temporary job last year, Bugeye Bonnet will get the benefit of a whole lot of technique experience. Gotta finish the metal work first though. Gloss Hunter Green is pretty darn close to original BRG on that car.
 
John,

I have had the luxury of a retired experienced body man help me with my project. We are using a two part PPG epoxy primer NCP250. It is what they call a high build up primer. Meaning that it will fill in slight imperfections. This runs about $70.00/quart. I striped my car to the bare metal pounded metal where necessary added metal where necessary then Primed it. Next we went over any remaining dips or repair areas with plastic. and sanded smooth.While the final caot of plastic is very, very thin we repeated the addind and removing of plastic and primer until it was smooth and I would say perfect. We put aboout 20 hours alone in the bonnet.Primed again, block sanded filled any remaing imperfections with glazing plastic, sanded and primed again. We will block again and go for color. I have been amazed how much time it takes to do this right. But as you said if we get them running right the only thing anyone will notice is the finished body. So if you can afford it don't skimp. It takes a good eye, time and patience.

Mark
 
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