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Prep for painting

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ecutr6

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The previous owner had the '80 MGB LE painted and topped with clear coat. Over time the clear coat has failed, and over the top areas it has come off the car. And on the fringes where it is still adheared it is flaking. I am prepping the body myself by hand sanding. My question is: Should I remove all the clear coat or just sand well around the edges, well into the existing well-adheared clear coat. Also, the car is outside kept, and I need a recommended primer (with brand name) to use until I can get it painted.

I look forward to your suggestions.
 
Well, it looks like your caught between a rock and a hard place. To do it right, you should take the finish down to metal and start over. By sanding and leaving some of the old finish in place, a problem might emerge later, but then again, maybe not. It's a gamble of sorts. If the cost is an issue, then I'd sand it real good, prime it and paint it right away. Primer is not a protector from the weather. It's only a gripping surface for the paint. JMHO. PJ
 
I recently had a local body shop redo the original clearcoat on my '82 380SL....they took the old clear off without damaging the paint & recleared it - how, I don't know but it looks as nice as original.
 
I expect it was sanded of carefully or maybe buffed off with care.
 
I would take it down to metal with 180 grit then prime it with PPG DP40 Epoxy primer. This primer will seal the metal. However, you will need to scuff this primer if you wait longer than a week to top coat it. DP40 is a green - grey - they have other colors. This primer is compatible with almost all top and undercoats. However, I would stay with whatever paint manufacturer you decide to go with.

I have used PPG for years with good results. Dupont also makes fine products. Once you start with a paint manufacturer and system stay with it in order to avoid any surprises.
 
Thank you to each of you who replied. This Limited Edition is a great find for what I paid for it. The current budget does not allow for a trip to the body shop, so I need a really durable primer for the long term (5/6 months). Then I will be ready for the pros to have it. In its current condition I need to prime it before it gets down to bare metal.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]so I need a really durable primer for the long term (5/6 months). [/QUOTE]
Then, its epoxy primer if you're gonna run it 'naked' for a time.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif It is forever.
 
The last dozen or so cars we've painted.. after priming we've used sealer to preclude and bleeding thru of any problems...but if you use sealer you have to paint it right away. I wish I was closer to you...I'd donate a paint job if you bought the stuff. I've shot at least five free paint jobs this summer.
 
Wow what a deal, can make a long tow for a deal like that.
 
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