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TR6 Pre-Por-15 TR6

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mrv8q

mrv8q

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So I've taken to cleaning the dirty floors of my new-to- me '74 TR6, and I want to POR-15 the floor before installing carpeting, seats, etc. Please check the picture and advise me:
IMG_0559.jpg
I'd like to pull the body-to frame-bolts before I paint. What's a good substitute for replacing the whitish goop Triumph used around these bolts. (Not seen in this pic). Should I remove the large pad on each side of the floors, (painted body color), or just paint over them. I'd also like to remove that bolt and metal bracket by the drive shaft cover... is there a capture bolt under there? It seems to end on top of a chassis rail. I'd hate to pull it and find I can't bolt it back in. Any other BTDTs? Thanks!
 
Kevin, I did this project last winter, and used POR 15's Hardnose Paint on my floorboards. It's a 2 part epoxy paint that comes in a 12 colors. It dries to a very hard finish, and was close to my body color. I painted over the large pads, and don't recommend trying to remove them. In my case, I painted over the body bolt heads and metal brackets. Floorboards look nice, and are well sealed now. Bob
 
If you remove any bolts, protect the threads from the POR-15 with some other bolts in their place. Otherwise the POR-15 will be hard to remove from the bolt holes later.

You'll also need to scratch up the surface with some 120 for the POR to adhere to. If it was mine, I'd just paint with a good auto paint, those floors look great to my eyes.
 
Ditto on roughing up the surface prior to the POR-15. The crappier the base finish, the better POR-15 sticks--and it does best with bare metal underneath, not primer or paint. I also agree that your floors look pretty good! You might consider using POR-15 to spot-treat some crusty areas and seams, and just topcoat the whole thing with epoxy paint as suggested.

Removing those pads is an awful job and I would not attempt it unless you had clear evidence of rust damage under them.
 
I wouldn't use POR-15 on those floors, either. Not enough rust (really!).

Great product but not made to paint over paint...
 
I would not put POR 15 on that floor. A good sanding with 50-80 grit paper, treatment with some phosphoric acid or navel jelly on the more rusted area, then cover with a good two-part epoxy and you are in business.

Do not remove the sound deadening material, just paint over it.

The bolt and metal bracket can be easily removed, it threads through captive nuts in the frame.

The whitish material is often referred to as Dumb-dumb. It is a flexible waterproof caulk similar to what is sometimes used on windows. You can get like material that comes in strips at your local hardware store. Tear some off, knead it well and apply in the hole and under the bolts. Tighten everything down, and wipe off the excess.
 
Thanks, all! I appreciate the comments....
 
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