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POR-15 vs Eastwood Encapsulator

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Don_R

Don_R

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Which is better
POR-15 or Eastwood Encapsulator.

Am looking to do the floor and trunk area of the Spit.

are there vendors for POR-15 or is it direct order only.


Don R
 
I got POR at the local paint store, so it is not just direct order, I am in fact using some today, used some on the floors of the TR250, I like it over rust, but I also painted the air filter housing with it, and I can't seem to get it to stop bubbling in the finish. mostly tiny bubbles. If I had a do over I would re-do the air cleaner housing with engine enamel.
 
I have used both. Kinda prefer Eastwood's rust encapsulator. Much easier to use, way less prep needed, and holds up very, very well. And way cheaper.
 
I've never user the POR stuff, but have used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. I found it very easy to use without all of the prep that the POR seems to need. I've used it both as a brush on and in the spray cans. Although the spray cans cost alot more, I prefered them over brushing on.
 
I'll put in another vote for rust encapsulator...very easy to use and does hold up very well.
 
The beauty of Rust Encapsulator is ease of use. When I recently welded in a new Ratco rear cross member on my frame, I simply used a disposable brush, stirred up my old can of Encapsulator (try that with POR15, once opened, the shelf life is very short) and sloshed on a thick coat. Worked great.
 
Somewhere, sometime, somebody did a nifty comparison of the various sealers - probably searching this forum would turn up that link again.
 
Both good, but I like POR15.

Tomato,,,tomato
 
Never tried the Eastwood paint, but I am a POR-15 fan. You know its working because the fumes will kill you
 
I've used both and it depends on where I am using it on which I like better. Eastwood is easier to spray out of a spray gun. Brushing I liked POR15 better.
 
Yes, POR15 requires a lot of prep but personally I like to bring the panel back to bare metal sans rust anyway so there isn't really that much difference in prep at that point.

I had a disappointing experience using the Eastwood Black Rust Encapsulator, the sill started showing early signs of rusting again despite being well prepared. Since then I've stuck to using POR15 for anything that isn't going to get waxed (floor pans, frame etc...)

The Eastwood stuff sure goes on nice however, and it appears that have introduced a new/better formula which might be better.

Have you looked at ZeroRust? Carried by autobody shops and I've found it to be outstanding to work with.
 
Haven't looked at zerorust. The floor and trunk pans were my jumping off point.

I have a hard top that has some rust spots that need treatment before I paint (Inca Yellow or Corvette yellow leaning toward Inca). I was going to use the pans to learn before doing the top.






BTW TD
The carbs are slowly coming together. I now realize what a pain it is to polish aluminum. Intake is clean and ready to assemble front carb.
 
I have only used POR15. I find it to be a very good product; tough as nails to remove from a panel once dry. I also have never had a problem using right from the can after many months. I just make sure to place a piece of saran wrap over the top before putting the can's top back on; seals it really good.
 
Mark Jones said:
I just make sure to place a piece of saran wrap over the top before putting the can's top back on; seals it really good.
Click to expand...

I also have only used POR15 so I can't comment on any other product. My trick to keeping the can "useable" is to buy cheap toy glass marbles. Before I seal the can, I drop a few of the marbles into the can to bring the paint level up to the top and decrease the air space at the top of the can.
 
Don - for anything that needs to be painted that is part of the car exterior I'd shy away from using POR-15. For anything like pans and trunk floor etc then I'd tend to use POR15.

I think a spray can product will give you a better finish under conventional paint but <span style="font-weight: bold">make sure to check compatibility first</span>.
 
My bet is on POR15. It is the best stuff made for rust prevention and sealing. Can't beat it...
 
Brilliant idea - tip about the marbles.
I have also heard about putting a screw in the bottom of the side and useing this as a spigot dispenser (into a paper painting cup)
 
I have never used Eastwoods product. It depends on your application as to which product to use. Read the can. If you have bare metal POR15 is not recommended to be used. Unless you metal prep the area. I always metal prep with acid on rust to etch and neutralize the rust. The POR 15 is cured by rust. Never dip your brush into the can and paint a rusty surface and the dip it back into the can. The rust molecules you transferred will cure the POR15 inside the can. Pour it into a bowel and keep adding more as you need it. Clean the rim of the can well too and put wax paper between the lid and the can when you seal it. Other wise you may never get it apart. I have kept POR well over a year after using it by falling these few rules. I sell this stuff for a living.

glemon had trouble with bubbles probably because it POR is lifting off the metal surface if he did not metal prep it. No rust to bit into and cure. Also always put on 2 coats. Wait just until it is almost completely cured with just a slight tack to the surface. Then recoat.
 
I have only used POR 15, and found it gave a good finish when brushed on.
I was told by the distributor that POR does NOT stand for Paint Over Rust, and I had my chassis blasted before i painted it.

I think the idea of paint keeping oxygen away from metal, or encapsulating rust, is a really bad idea. No matter how good the paint you should remove all rust before you paint. (Just my opinion!) Simon.
 
However if all rust is removed POR15 will not stick. It needs rust to cure and bond. If you go the route of removing all the rust a sealer primer like an epoxy primer is best to seal and lock everything down.
 
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