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TR2/3/3A Por-15 in engine block?

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tinman58

tinman58

Jedi Knight
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Getting the block and head back from the machine shop tomorrow. Just wondering if there is anything that I can encapsulate the crud that won’t scrape off the walls Of the block.
 
Just to clarify, the water jacket is what I think I meant.
 
tinman58 said:
Getting the block and head back from the machine shop tomorrow. Just wondering if there is anything that I can encapsulate the crud that won’t scrape off the walls Of the block.
Click to expand...
What have you had done. As I would expect it to be clean. Certainly if any work involved liner removal.
if it comes back clean I wouldn’t use anything as paint can detach and start blocking things like radiators and the painted surface can reduce heat transfer.
just use a good anti-freeze mix with a good rust inhibitor and change it every couple of years. If you don’t want an anti freeze use a house wet heating system inhibitor.
 
www.eastwood.com

Glyptal Red Brush On 1 qt

Seals uneven surfaces in enginecastings to improve oil circulation
www.eastwood.com www.eastwood.com

Multi-Purpose Glyptal® Red Enamel seals uneven surfaces in engine castings to improve oil circulation

  • Acid- and oil-resistant
  • Also resists moisture, heat dust, salt spray
  • Anti-corrosion protection
Glyptal 1201 seals the rough interior castings of engine blocks to help prevent engine damage. Sealing the tiny pores left in metal after bead blasting leaves the engine block interior smooth and clean, and that helps keep oil clean and flowing freely.
 
I would have been VERY miffed to get a block back that had any rust or crud left here.
Wire brush /naval jelly don't paint it!!! Just clean it. NO paint will stay on here!
Mad dog
 
I thought about putting that glyptal on my block interior when I redid my engine. Once I had opened the engine up after it had sat with no oil in it for weeks and saw how much residual oil there was everywhere I decided not to bother. I recall reading that the preparation involved was very specific and my reasoning for not doing it was that if I didn’t get it absolutely right then I’d have it flaking off inside the engine possibly requiring another rebuild…

As said above, when it gets home from the machine shop clean clean clean it and then spray it with WD-40 or another preservative and it should be fine.
 
On the outside of the engine, as I soda blasted the outer layer of dirt and grime, I did discover lo and behold the orange 3 on the side! That was heartwarming…
 
Not generally known , but paint is NOT water proof. There are marine specific paints that work well
under water , and epoxy's could be effective if the metal were cleaned enough. But most paints
will only last a few weeks when submerged , then flake off. IMHO this is where, clean it and trust in the
corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze.
Mad dog
 
Mad dog!
got it no paint I trust your judgement!
 
Get a set of small rotary wire brushes that fit a 1/4" drill and an extension. They will take of any crud in the water jacket worth worrying about. I see no advantage to any kind of coating or paint inside the block, and lots of disadvantages.
 
A possible reason besides flaking of coatings is that the metal straight to coolant contact likely creates the best heat transfer.
 
In our racing engines we would polish and then paint all the internal surfaces exposed to oil. The idea was to allow the oil to get back to the sump quickly. We never considered painting the water jacket. Paint acts like an insulator, which is the opposite of what you want in the cooling jackets. If you are worried about debris flaking off, I would recommend you spend more time scraping and brushing the block clean. You should have no doubts about cleanliness before you assemble an engine.

Oh...rustoleum was our paint, and it was recommended by Chevy Performance at GM.
 
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