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Polymer coatings on hubs & rotors...

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In anticipation (cue: Carly Simon...) of putting new wire wheels on my 100/6 2-seater, I bought all four (4) new hubs and K/Os to go along with them. Given my age (55) they should last as long as I own and (am able to) drive the car.

While the new hubs, as supplied by Moss Motors, have what appears to be a zinc coating on them, I elected to use some polymer coatings from Techline (there's a good description on this page, see "An Introduction to <Polymer> Coatings: https://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/about.us.html ).

Much of this technology transfer was the result of NASA's Space Shuttle Program, and handed down to the private sector during the late 80s-early 90s. I've personally been applying these high performance polymer coatings since the mid-90s with good results.

The rear hubs were lightly sandlasted to etch the surface, then a thin (approximately .0015") coating of TLTD thermal-dispersant was sprayed over their entirety. After application, the hubs are cured for one (1) hour once the part reaches 300*. The rear hubs are now ready to be bolted onto the car.

The front hubs and new rotors were also lightly sandblasted, and two (2) different coatings applied. First, the backside of the hubs, and the mating surface of the rotors where they attach to the hubs were coated with TLTB, a thermal-barrier. The thermal-barrier will resist the transfer of braking heat to the hub and wheel bearings.

After re-masking, the remainder of the front hubs, and all exposed/non-contact surfaces of the rotor were coated with TLTD thermal-dispersant, to assist with radiating the braking heat away from the parts.

Here are some pictures taken during the process:

As received

IMG_6556.jpg


After sandblasting to prepare the surface for coating

IMG_6858.jpg


Front hubs/rotors preparing for 1st coating application

IMG_6859.jpg


After 1st application

IMG_6864.jpg


IMG_6865.jpg


Ready for rear hubs & 2nd application to fronts & rotors

IMG_6872.jpg


In the oven

IMG_6875.jpg


Post cure cycle

IMG_6881.jpg


Front hubs reheated/bearing races chilled overnight in the fezzer

IMG_6981.jpg


IMG_6982.jpg


Normally, that would be enough for the races to "drop in" but these still required some stern influence to fully seat

IMG_6983.jpg


Continued (reached picture/link limit per post?)...
 
Front hubs with rotors torqued, races installed & ready for installation on the car.

IMG_7021.jpg


IMG_7026.jpg


The new wheels (Dayton D464 chrome 70-spoke center-laced) are supposed to ship 2/2/10, so I'll update this thread once they're unpacked (and new tubeless tires mounted, and as they go on the car...).

If anyone has any questions about the polymer coatings and process, I'll be glad to share what I know.
 
I'm not sure that it was your intention but those are gorgeous. The first pic in the second post looks like trophies. Amazing.
 
Thanks, I was beginning to think that my post didn't show up!

I guess the appearance is a good example of form following function :wink:

The thermal dispersant has an intensely black finish, and knowing that was part of the motivation.

Thanks again.
 
Randy -

Which one of the Techline coatings did you apply to your components?
I used their Cilgen Satin Black on my custom headers after a complete bead blast and was very happy with the results. This line is good in excess of 1800 degrees and with it's air dry cure its great for big items.

Dougie
 
That's gorgeous Dougie! Those tubes look much bigger than my tubes...

Satin Black has been a Techline product since at least the mid 90s (first time I used it), but the "Cilgen" moniker is something new; I'll have to look it up on their website.

The Techline coatings in my current arsenal, include TLML (dry-film lubricant), TLTD (thermal dispersant), TLTB (thermal barrier) and TLHB (another type of thermal barrier). The TLHB can be "flowed" inside of header tubes, as coating thickness is not critical like most of their products. I use it to coat the inside of exhaust ports (in the cylinder head).

Those products show above on the rotors and hubs are mostly TLTD, with just a splash of TLTB to prevent rotor heat from going into the front wheel bearings.

I just did a full complement of coatings to my sideshift gearbox and overdrive; I assembled them in the past couple of days, but haven't put up much in the way of a thread about them yet, but it's coming...

In the meantime, take a look (beats late-nite infomercials...)
oating work:
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album171
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album168
Assemblying:
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album173
https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album172
 
Beautiful work as usual Randy. All those parts should compliment the new wheels nicely. Man, you have me wanting to get an oven for my garage. Blast you. Oh, did you go with 16" rims on the Daytons, or did you stick with 15"?
 
Thanks. I tried to get alloy rims 16", but they couldn't do them, something about losing the vendor that punched the holes in the rims. I ordered the AC Cobra 15 x 6 center-laced.

Same wheels that I had in the 80s, as seen below, but I sold them to a guy with an MGCGT; bet they looked hot on that too!

handbraketurn.sized.jpg


handbraketurn2.sized.jpg
 
Hmmmm, I wonder if that makes me the only guy with 16" wires on a Healey. With those 6" rims, you should have a wide range of tires to choose from.
 
Randy, I'm impressed!!!.....looks like another technology I need to learn about!!....I keep finding more to learn and less time to learn them all! Those look beautiful!

Cheers,
Steve Thomton
 
HealeyPassion said:
Randy, I'm impressed!!!.....looks like another technology I need to learn about!!....I keep finding more to learn and less time to learn them all! Those look beautiful!

Cheers,
Steve Thomton
Steve, it's not a difficult process, just time-consuming. You'd blast a part and coat it, just like you would do with paint; thickness is somewhat critical, but easy to get the hang of (better to err on the side of too thin than too heavy). Then the part has to be cured an hour once it reaches temperature (300*F). Most parts you can do in a cast-off kitchen oven (or if your wife's not home...).

I bought the big oven (2 x 3 x 4) so I could fit a BMW 6-cylinder head in it. It's actually intended for use as a powder-coat curing oven, I just haven't taken up that process yet :wink:
 
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