• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Poly bushings

Share this page

19_again

19_again

Jedi Warrior
Offline
I'm putting new dampers up front, and since everyone agrees that the poly bushings are the way to go I figured I'd order them and throw them in while I had Bee up on jacks. Tne pictures show an orange pencil pointing to the point where the wishbone pivot meets the wishbone arm.There are no bushings on either side of the inside joints but there are bushings on the outside as shown in the pix. I want to add the bushings, but don't know how to safely remove the wishbone pivot. Any help will be appreciated, and since I'm replacing all the bushings any caveats would also be nice.
Thanks, Mike
https://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1931099
 
I think you need to take the entire A-frame apart. Both wishbone arms need to come off of the spring pan in order to remove them from the wishbone pivot.

I just got a full car Polykit I cannot wait to install.
 
You need to remove the coil spring, spring pan and then each A-arm independently. Press the bushings out of the A-arms and reassemble with the new bushings.
 
Any issues regarding the compression of the spring in order to get back together? I'll take lots of pix of course but don't want any springs flying across the garage.
 
The proper way to do it is with a spring compressor. If you're feeling brave, many people do it by placing a floor jack under the spring pan. Remove the four bolts which hold the pan to the A-arms. Slowly lower the jack and the spring and pan come out together. Replacing is done the same way but it's trickier to line it all up. Personally this method scares me so I choose to utilize a spring compressor. The trick is to find a small enough one for an MG spring.
 
Excellent, Thanks guys. I'll let you know if I'm wearing new coil spring ear rings.
Mike
 
If you are going to use a floor jack, I have put a tie down strap through the spring, cinch it up, and then after beating the bolt out of the top of the stub axle, I slowly let the jack down. I have done it a couple of times with no ill effects. The problem I had was trying to find a compressor that was small enough to fit inside the B's spring.
 
Mac tools sells one. It needs a very slight amount of steel taken away from the corners of the hinge brackets. I found an identical tool at a local parts house under a different brand name. It's US-made and high quality, and cost around $50.
 
Call me el bravado, but a good, proper (read: the sort a mechanic uses in the shop) floor jack with a good sized head is perfectly fine.

...and I agree that lining things up when recompressing, without lifting the car off the stands can be a little time consuming!
 
Steve_S said:
Mac tools sells one. It needs a very slight amount of steel taken away from the corners of the hinge brackets. I found an identical tool at a local parts house under a different brand name. It's US-made and high quality, and cost around $50.
Click to expand...

sign0156.gif
That's the safest way to go! I think I got mine at a local auto supply. Measure the hole, I forget the size and get a compresser with ends small enough to go through. I had to grind a little off of the corners on mine also to get it in. Works great!
 
Whose got a pic of that tool?
 
Back
Top