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TR2/3/3A Plug Weld CyL Head

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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100_1744.jpg Is this what is meant by having a cracked head plug welded? How reliable is this method? (the orange gunk on the valve heads is grease not rust and wipes right off.)
 
I have no doubt Randall is right but since you brought up the subject, I don't think it is considered ideal but is often done to parts that are hard to find replacements for. I had it done on my Healey 100 head, which have been described as having two stages in their lives, cracked, or about to crack. This was a few years back when machine shops were a little more common. I assume there is a bit of skill or art involved, because my guy and a couple other gearheads said there was only one guy that could do it, and he was a bit of a magician.

He did do it for me, I asked if it would hold, he said he wouldn't do it if it wasn't going to be as good as new, I only kept the car a couple years after but nothing blew up.
 
I just brought my TR4A head to a LBC specialist to have it reworked, and the first thing he noticed was a crack in the same place. He said that I probably could just leave it alone, but planned to fix it using the stitching technique. He said welding was an option, but welding cast iron is often disappointing; I don't doubt it.

As it happened, magnafluxing showed quite a few more cracks, so that head will now see service only as one humongous paperweight. But I have another one that could be OK; we'll see.

There are a number of videos about the repair of cracks in blocks and heads on YouTube. The process is pretty interesting.
 
I always called it a "pin repair" but stitching sounds good too. Here is a pic of the repair done on the head of my Series Land Rover. It has held up nicely, but I think it may be a function of the shop doing the work. My shop does a lot of high performance work and are known to be good.
head after2.jpg
 
Lock & Stitch is it's name. Reliable when done properly, yours looks good from what I can see.
 
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