Hey Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
In case anyone was curious but had not done it yet. This was another one of those links like rebuilding the carbs that I had a mental block on, but as everyone suggested it is actually pretty simple.
Here is my replacement brake M/C for the TR4A as it came. It had sat for a long time but the seller (nice guy) cleaned it up a little for before sending it along. You'll note that this unit has two exterior rings on it, which indicated that is has a .7 bore where as a single ring indicates a .75 bore. You'll need to confirm which you have before ordering replacement parts.
You first peal back the rubber boot so you can access the circlip that hold the push rod and inner assembly in place;
Expect to see some junk here that needs to be cleaned up;
Once you compress the circlips the push rod will come right out and you'll remove the following;
This is the piston inside the M/C bore that does the work. This needs to be removed next
In some cases it will be stuck further in, if you are really lucky and have a healthy M/C to rebuild you <span style="font-style: italic">might</span> be able to just tap it upside down (bore facing down) and have the piston come out. More likely that you'll need to tap it fairly hard on something to shake the piston out. In most cases after tapping the piston will stick out enough that you'll be able to gently grab it with pliers and gently pull it out of the bore.
Here is the assembly that comes out. We'll be replacing the rubber seals.
And this is what the bore looks like, more more accurately what you bore might look like but hope that it doesn't. It was hard to get the camera to focus on the inside of the bore but if you look you can see a dark ridge about 1/3 down the bore. That is pitting, nasty pitting actually, and this unit will need to be re-sleeved since honing it won't work.
It is still worth holding on to as a core since it can be resleeved for around $80 where-as a new one is over $160 froms Moss.
Here is my replacement brake M/C for the TR4A as it came. It had sat for a long time but the seller (nice guy) cleaned it up a little for before sending it along. You'll note that this unit has two exterior rings on it, which indicated that is has a .7 bore where as a single ring indicates a .75 bore. You'll need to confirm which you have before ordering replacement parts.
You first peal back the rubber boot so you can access the circlip that hold the push rod and inner assembly in place;
Expect to see some junk here that needs to be cleaned up;
Once you compress the circlips the push rod will come right out and you'll remove the following;
This is the piston inside the M/C bore that does the work. This needs to be removed next
In some cases it will be stuck further in, if you are really lucky and have a healthy M/C to rebuild you <span style="font-style: italic">might</span> be able to just tap it upside down (bore facing down) and have the piston come out. More likely that you'll need to tap it fairly hard on something to shake the piston out. In most cases after tapping the piston will stick out enough that you'll be able to gently grab it with pliers and gently pull it out of the bore.
Here is the assembly that comes out. We'll be replacing the rubber seals.
And this is what the bore looks like, more more accurately what you bore might look like but hope that it doesn't. It was hard to get the camera to focus on the inside of the bore but if you look you can see a dark ridge about 1/3 down the bore. That is pitting, nasty pitting actually, and this unit will need to be re-sleeved since honing it won't work.
It is still worth holding on to as a core since it can be resleeved for around $80 where-as a new one is over $160 froms Moss.
