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Photo of casting defect

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2wrench

2wrench

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A photo of my engine block. This shows the casting
defect that looked so much like a crack that it
sent me chasing all over for a rebuildable engine.

Notice the grinding/scratch marks. I think they did
this to determine the depth of the defect.

P1010024-6.jpg
 
Good deal, never had that particular issue, but good to know some may be like that, I have scrambled and put a lot of effort into more than one part I was "SURE" I needed only to find out I didn't, but I assume you are happy you don't have to track down a block and have it shipped from somewhere.
 
You can have the block magnafluxed for peace of mind.
 
That is exactly what they did, 2wrench. I described surface "chilling" in your prior thread. The cast material cooled when it hit the surface of the casting mold in that area, and "folded" a bit on its surface. No biggie! YAY! Time for paint!
 
2wrench
What year and Commission number on that block?
My 74 TR6 had a very similar if not the same cast mark you may recall. They magnafluxed mine all ok. Just thought it would be interesting to compare numbers.
 
This is very common in sand casting. Usually the molder does a quick inspection of the cavity and patches the "flaws" but it might have been missed. It is also possible that the sand/bond mix was too dry and buckled slightly.

The cope (top) and drag (bottom) are made by placing a box frame with no top or bottom on the pattern and the sand/bond mix is dumped in and hammered around the pattern to fill all the voids and pack the sand. Then they are lifted off and the drag is placed on a pallet where the box frame is removed. The core (inside mold) is placed on supports in the drag and the cope placed on the drag and its frame removed. The resulting space between the cope, drag, and core is where the metal fills. I believe the blocks would have been tipped up so they are poured resulting in the bottom side being up. Of course there are sprues, risers, and other things involved.
 
Magnafluxed or whatever, they say she is good to go
to the next level. So the machinist seems a bit slow,
but all good things come with time, right?

They've had the block, etc, since the end....in fairness,
the very end.....of last year.

The suspense is killing me. Plus, the weather here in
California has turned rather nice; low to mid 60's.

I wanna drive.

Had a younger cousin who used to throw a tantrum by
throwing his body onto the floor and holding his
breath. My aunt immediately folded. He was her
baby. Now he is a really nice guy, fully responsible.

Think if I do that in the machine shop I'll get what
I want??
 
ummm.... just my opinion, Den, but I'd refrain from that in front of machinists. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
Norton47 said:
2wrench
What year and Commission number on that block?
My 74 TR6 had a very similar if not the same cast mark you may recall. They magnafluxed mine all ok. Just thought it would be interesting to compare numbers.
Click to expand...

Anbody tell me where to look for the block
commission numbers are?

Curious: Since the head is being shaved down,
am I gonna lose info somehow...you know, numbers
or something, or are they just on the block?
 
No worries. The "skinnin'" is in the neighborhood of a few thousandths of an inch.
 
2wrench - On a sidescreen TR, the engine number is stamped in 1/2" high numerals on the flat boss on the block to the rear of the distributor location, just above the machined face for the fuel pump. It should read something like "TS 44444 E". The "E" is for "engine". This TS number on the block should be about 300 numbers higher than the TS number on the VIN (Comm. No.) registration serial number plate - if the engine is the original engine that the car had when it left the S-T factory.

Let us know what you find.
 
Thanks, Don. I'll save the verbiage to a file and
will respond when I get to see my block again.
Have no idea how long that will be. I'm trying
not to be a pest at the machine shop. Don't want
to ruffle any feathers.
 
2wrench said:
Anbody tell me where to look for the block
commission numbers are?

Curious: Since the head is being shaved down,
am I gonna lose info somehow...you know, numbers
or something, or are they just on the block?
Click to expand...

The numbers on the head are on the top, where the valve cover goes. Shaving the head will not lose you any information.

The numbers for the block are where Don described, but they won't start with 'TS' for your TR6 block. Either CC or CF is what you should find for the prefix to the actual serial number. Decking the block to zero clearance will eliminate the numbers from that boss.
 
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