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Pertronix issues

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Bill--

I think you should stick with the Pertonix. Given all the time you have spent trying to get the car started it is understandable that the poor Pertronix just got cooked.

As you know the unit's one weakness is that it doesn't like to be energized for long without the car running. To minimize exposing the Pertronix to overheating while adjusting timing I get everything set up, loosen the timing pinch bolt, start the engine and adjust advance as necessary, then shut down and retighten.

Pertronix has a fairly liberal return policy--at Jeff's suggestion I sent back a unit to Prtronix that had gotten cooked when I was being a little careless and they sent me a replacement free.
 
wlivesey said:
Well I met my waterloo today.
The Coil was getting 12V when the starter butten was pushed or not pushe The solenoid was also geting 12V.

I added the ground wire inside of the distributor. But today I couldn't even get the car started (it was arainy day)with the starter butten pushed in

:savewave:This was a good move that ground must be inplsce irregardless of the ignition system in use.
I messed with the timing...

To make a long story short - I managed to cook the ignitor.

I am ready to go back to the points, but now I need a new ignition base - :savewave:-----NAA Stick with the pertronix :yesnod:

(I had to cut the brass post that the points pivoted on). Maybe the problem was that the Ignitor was for a DM6 and my distributor was a DM6A. Who knows?
:savewave:
well you do have aproblem. But to install the correct pertronix in a lucas distributor does not require cutting the pivot post.

I emailed Jeff at Advanced Distributors to see if he has a ignition base plate

So thanks for everyonr trying to help me. I do appreciate it...

Bill L
cell 401-965 4544
Why do I love this car???????
Click to expand...

To simplify the Pertronix installation and I support it Make certain your car is configured to the Negative ground configuration.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
I would like to warn everyone that the clay content in the stock rotor cap is not rated for the high volt coils. They were designed for at most a Lucas sports coil. I have seen a number of rotors develop a carbon trace right through to the distributor shaft. This will also take out the pertronic unit in the process. If you look real close into the bottom of the rotor you might see a little melted bubble in the corner area inside the cap. Aftermarket/king fing fu/fourth world made units will fail even at stock coil voltage. My advice is to always carry a spare rotor and pertronic unit.
 
I would like to warn everyone that the clay content in the stock rotor cap is not rated for the high volt coils. They were designed for at most a Lucas sports coil. I have seen a number of rotors develop a carbon trace right through to the distributor shaft. This will also take out the pertronic unit in the process. If you look real close into the bottom of the rotor you might see a little melted bubble in the corner area inside the cap. Aftermarket/king fing fu/fourth world made units will fail even at stock coil voltage. My advice is to always carry a spare rotor and pertronic unit. This especially goes for all you guys that think you need 80,000 volts to fire a engine that only needs 30,000 volts. A bosch blue coil works just fine.
 
I agree w/jollyroger, more does not always equate to better! Bosch blue coils or Lucas sport coil works great. For those that think they need more plug, try a NGK BP6ET- T-meaning triple electrode,pregapped long LIFE PLUG. They work great& last forever. cheers Genos2
 
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