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Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition Installation

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MGTF1250Dave

MGTF1250Dave

Jedi Knight
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Aloha All,

I recently decided to replace the points in my TR3A with a Pertronix electronic system. Last year I had my old original distributor made like new by Advanced Distributors but stayed with points & condensor. I have the Pertronix system (flame thrower coil and Ignitor)and will install it this weekend, but I have a question about some items included in the box. There is a small piece of clear flexiable plastic (about 1 1/2 X 3/8 X 1/64 in inches) and a nylon zip tie. I suspect the zip tie can be used to secure wires inside the distributor and perhaps the plastic strip is a feeler gauge. Does anyboby know what those items are used for?
 
You are correct in both cases.
Two concerns: keep the wires clear of the shaft and don't cross wires. Pertronix systems are very sensitive to current flow, and one spark will cause failure. I had a cross arc from the coil positive terminal pass through the insulation of the negative wire and destroy the unit.
But once installed, you will love it.
 
Dave, don't be surprised if the dizzy has to be rotated a bit to get your timing back to where you had it before the installation.
On the TR6 the orientation of the pick-up module is a little different with respect to the dizzy cam shaft than the contact points were.
 
Thanks for feed back and tips. I assume then that the plastic feeler gauge is to set the spacing between the electronic module and the distributor cam magnetic sleeve.
 
Right about the feeler gauge. As good as I think the Pertronix is, the instruction sheet is not. I never did see a feeler gauge mentioned. I found out same as you...on a Forum.
 
Thanks again. I'll let every one know how the install went when I get it finished.
 
And don't forget to carry a spare set of points
and condenser in the event the Petronix unit fails.

Mine failed after 200 miles of use.

d.
 
Tinster said:
And don't forget to carry a spare set of points
and condenser in the event the Petronix unit fails.

d.
Click to expand...
That's the one thing that they made <span style="text-decoration: underline">clear </span> in the instructions, dale.
 
I installed the "ignitor" and "flame thrower" coil this weekend. Every thing went fairly smoothly. I had to shorten the wires from the "ignitor", but that is easier than adding to them. I had a spare distributor contact breaker plate, so I could remove that from the distributor with the points and condensor attached and the points properly gapped. Those are in the car as a spare. I did need to reset the timing after the install. I'm still fine tuning the timing with the vernier on the distributor to eliminate "pinging" on hard acceleration.

I purchased the parts directly from Pertronix and they sent me a feedback survey. I asked them what the clear plastic piece was for but haven't received an answer yet.
 
Glad to hear it went well. I shortened my wires.too. I needed to put a little larger female spades to fit the coil spades as well.
Based on my TR6 installation, I was able to open my plug gaps from .025 to .035 with the increase in dwell that the Pertronix provides WITH the standard coil.
I'd have to open the gaps considerably more to require the additional voltage that a 40k volt Flamethrower is capable of providing. But I'm getting complete combustion, it seems, at .035.
I think you may find Dan Master's thoughts on the relationship between plug gaps and coil output voltage interesting, particularly what he has to say in this last Long paragraph.
https://www.vtr.org/maintain/ballast.shtml
 
So does 40,000 volts really change with air gap? What about other variables? Such as A/F ratio? Compression? It takes much higher KV demand to fire the mixture lean than rich... but it also takes higher KV to fire in high compression such as idle as opposed to higher RPM where compression is lower. Take modern waste spark where 2 plugs fire simultaneously... The "waste" is the spark that fires in the cylinder with no compression or fuel... I've seen as little as 5KV fire on the waste side on my Oscilloscope!... Gas is a conductor, so a rich mixture can fire much much easier than a lean mixture. None of the Tiumphs I've worked on run anywhere lean enough to require 40KV to fire the plug.... And 40 KV isn't really it's own benchmark, given the variables. Don't forget the air gap at the distributor rotor....it is part of the equation... how many more rotors will burn through with 40 KV than 20? Keep in mind, the plug gap has to be the dominant gap in order to prevent crossfiring or misfiring. In short, I do not run these "flame thrower" coils... because more isn't always better. er,uh, unless you're Tim Allen!
 
Agreed. It seems from what I've read in the Forums that a lot of folks feel obliged to install a Flame Thrower when they convert to a Pertronix.
I think that I've even seen the coil thrown in for "free" with the purchase of a Pertronix Ignitor.
 
That's because the layman has no idea how the ignition system REALLY functions. Pertronix, HEI, Dura-Spark, and all electronic "ignition" systems are actually the on-off switches for the collapsing of the coil, which, by their inherent design superiority allows for higher SECONDARY voltage so as to control emissions. That's all! No voo-doo or smoke and mirrors magic there. The fact is, there is'nt a triumph in my brood that has anywhere near the need for 40KV to fire the secondary voltage. Emissions? That's one of many reasons British Leyland went out of business in the U.S. For emissions concerns, I can spend time under the hood of my 5.4 Litre 2008 F-150... Unless you contemplate retro-fitting a catalytic converter to your triumph, or drag racing the thing, stock 20KV secondary voltage is more than adequate!
 
That, and the fact that if it shows up in a catalog of Triumph parts then it must be for a Triumph.
 
My mentor, the late Rolls-Royce Master, John Bamberg stated many times that there are a lot of products on the market to sell, but not to buy! How correct he was!
 
I think the nylon tie-strap is to put on your finger so as not to forget to put the rotor back in the distributor before the cap goes on... DOH!
 
Re: Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition Installa

So I go to set my timing on the TR3 today . I setup the 12v bulb between distro and battery.... and then realize I have Pertronix installed... Doh! So obviously this method won't work, right?

So maybe this is a stupid question, but what is the best way to tune the car with a Pertronix installed? My friend has a timing light, but I've heard that isn't the way TR's are supposed to be set. I've got it running pretty well just by sound & feel, but I'd like to do it right.

Thanks!
 
Re: Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition Installa

An old racing trick:::: Put a vacuum gage on the intake, warm up the engine, rev the engine to 3,000 RPM and set timing to optimum vacuum reading.... she'll purr like a kitten an accelerate like a cheetah!
 
Re: Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition Installa

how do you know the optium vacuum reading? why did you select 3000 rpm as opposed to a different rpm?
 
Re: Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition Installa

3,000 RPM is high enough that the distributor advance is all in but not enough to throw a rod. Optimum vacuum is achieved by turning the distributor back and forth and watching the vacuum gage until you obtain the highest stable vacuum reading.... optimum vacuum for what that engine is capable of making. I've seen it done many times.
 
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