Permatex Aviation

[TRclassic3]

Based on comments, expecially by TR6Bill, sounds like Permatex aviation is the best stuff to use (talking oil pan here). Anybody know what stores may stock it? Looked at a NAPA yesterday and they did not.

 

[YankeeTR]

They can get it from their warehouse. Ask for Form-a-Gasket #3...that's the non-hardening brushable sealent that Bill is referring to...some guys may not know it by Aviation sealer.

 

[Don Elliott]

Google it : - https://www.permatex.com/

 

[Brosky]

Don't leave home without it!

From an old timer who grew up with this stuff.

 

[YankeeTR]

I'm so old I still call the NASCAR Busch cars 'late model sportsman's' and their Saturday race before the Daytona 500 the 'Permatex 300'....

 

[dklawson]

Though many say it isn't necessary, after bonding my cork valve cover gaskets to the valve cover... I apply a thin film of form-a-gasket to the cork that contacts the cylinder head. It's fairly clean, doesn't harden, and keeps all the oil on the right side of the valve cover. It is a great product.

 

[Brosky]

I still refer to them as "Cousin Billy's old shine car".

Which is what NASCAR was born out of.

 

[Aldwyn]

I bought mine via ebay.

 

[TRclassic3]

Thanks all. I have a followup question. I had initially replaced the pan gasket about a month ago. Seemed OK at first but is leaking mightily now. This may be due to the gas contamination of my oil. At any rate, thought I would use the aviation this time. Last time I was going to torque the bolts, set my wrench at 10 lbs. I noticed that when going to 10 pounds I was squishing the gasket out. Figured this can't be good and backed off. What do you all do? If you use a torque wrench, to what spec?

 

[Brosky]

It should not leak, whether it's thinned or not.

It works best when setup with the gasket in place overnight to partially harden and then paint a thin layer on top surface and install.

 

[TRclassic3]

Paul
That's exactly what I did the last time. Even gently tapped on the holes to eliminate any dimpling.

 

[PeterK]

Ed,

For oil pans and valve covers, fuel pumps, etc., Aviation Form-a-Gasket #2 non-hardening in the tube is recommended. I have used it for over 40 years nad it always my first choice for sealing cut gaskets.

PK

https://www.permatex.com/products/automot...o_2_Sealant.htm

 

[kodanja]

Ed,

For oil pans and valve covers

ya think this will do the trick to stop that miserable valve cover leak? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

 

[dklawson]

Though purists may cringe at my method, I clean off the old gasket material (valve cover or sump) and use RTV (blue) to bond the new gasket to the pan. After applying the RTV I invert the assembly and rest the gasket on a large flat plate of plexiglass resting on my flat workbench. This keeps the gasket "flat" while the RTV conforms to the gap between the gasket and pan. After an overnight cure, a thin coating of non-hardening sealant (form-a-gasket) creates a really nice seal between the block (or head) and the cork gasket with a minimal amount of torque.

I routinely use Permatex-2A or -2B (in a tube) on things like thermostat gaskets where I want a thicker and more permanent sealant but Aviation form-a-gasket remains more pliable for a longer period of time. If the surfaces are clean when applied it's a great sealant for valve covers which are removed fairly often.

I don't have an answer to the torque question posed above.

 

[Guest]

The trick to getting the cork gasket to seal on a cast aluminum valve cover using Permatex Aviation is to liberally apply the gunk to one side of the gasket and let it tack for about an hour or so. Then apply another thin coat over this and stick it to your cleaned valve cover. Because the darn cork gasket will want to move all over the place like a worm, I then use 128 spring-loaded wooden clothes pins and clamp the gasket down to the valve cover and then leave this overnight somewhere safe. Sometimes you may have to cut the inside gripping surface of the clothes pin with a box cutter to get a wider opening.

The next day I will liberally coat the uncoated side of the cork, let it set up for the hour or so, then apply a second thin coat and set it in place. I use plenty of torque to tighten the valve cover down, probably way more than is called for. Mine never leak.

 

[PeterK]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif I like the plexiglass method. What any technique needs to achieve is to create a flat surface from the irregular oil pan or valve cover surfaces so that the gasket can do the rest. Great idea (except for the blue stuff!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

[kodanja]

I'm gunna try the plexiglass method when I get home tonight, Thanx!