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PCV Install

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dikshutts

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Hello, I am new to this forum (or any forum for that matter) so forgive me if I use bad or incorrect forumisms.
I do have a question about how to properly intall my pcv into the intake on my TR250. The books that I have state to screw it in. The problem is the lack of threads! It would appear that some sort of goo was originally used. It gives me heartburn to just shove it in with some JB Weld. Any clues?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Hi There and welcome to the best forum on the net!! As you can see you've already drawn a response to your query and I know you will get the info you need within a short time. Don't hesitate to post and repost 'til you get what your after. These folks are the best and most knowledgeable anywhere and sincerely want to help. Again welcome and keep us posted.
 
tr:
Do you know if that pcv is the one used on the '74's as well? Moss number "379-010 $24.95 P.C.V. VALVE". I ahve just had a hose connected to the vent spout on the rocker cover and dropped down to about the height of the oil pan bottom for so long, I don't remember what the PCV looked like. If this one will work, what holds it in place and how is it plumbed? Thanks in advance for your advise.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...how to properly intall my pcv into the intake on my TR250. The books that I have state to screw it in. The problem is the lack of threads! It would appear that some sort of goo was originally used....

[/ QUOTE ]I apologize for not being as familiar with the TR250 setup. But the picture in the Moss catalog appears to show the valve fitting directly onto the intake. If I'm correct, it's a lot like the setup on the Mk3 Spitfire, where the valve was simply a press fit. They can get loose, and the resulting air leak is annoying, but it can be fixed by carefully "staking" (or perhaps "peening" is a better word) a couple spots on the inside of the hole on the intake and then reseating the PCV valve. That's what a local gas station mechanic did for me way back when on my Mk3 Spitfire, and I never had problems after that.
 
vettedog and all, the 250 and early TR6 use #5 and then it went to #20. #5 has about a 4 inch bracket that mounds to the a manifold bolt and #20 just hangs in the line, both of these will work on the later models if all the emissions stuff is gone and you may have to get some step up or down connections for the hoses to get them into the carbs. Just a pipe hanging down will not get all of the vapors out of the engine. Your carbs may not like it at first, so a little ajustment could be necessary. Wayne
 
Mr Mace is correct: it is just a press fit. Grab ahold and wiggle the old one out, push the new one in. FWIW I prefer this valve to the later arrangement(s). It seems to do the job better, especialy on older "well broken in" engines. I think that as the piston blow-by increases with age and use the connection to the carbs setup doesnt seem to be able to keep up as well.
 
That #5 valve was also used on both my '67 GT6 and my Mini. On both of those the intake manifold has a short nipple pointed "up". A short length of hose (with clamps) connects the base of the PCV to the nipple. The horizontal connection of the PCV goes to the rocker cover on the GT6 and a crankcase breather on my Mini. I would think your 250's PCV should be almost identical to the GT6 as they were from almost the same period and probably used similar intake manifolds.
 
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