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Paint vehicle with Rustoleum
- Thread starter GeeBee1
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T
Tinster
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GeeBee-
Maybe this will help ya, maybe not.
My engine compartment existing paint was in
terrible condition. I stripped the old paint
a little bit at a time and sanded out the fine rust
rust lines.
With a fine brush I applied a layer of Rustoleum.
More small areas bit by bit until the entire engine
compartment was cleaned up and had one layer of paint.
I then wet sanded all the drips and obvious brush
strokes. I then applied another coat over all the areas.
Let dry for a week or so and again wet sanded some spots.
I then applied a final coat of semi-gloss clear.
The final product is far from perfect but far better
than what I started with!!
best wishes,
tinster
Maybe this will help ya, maybe not.
My engine compartment existing paint was in
terrible condition. I stripped the old paint
a little bit at a time and sanded out the fine rust
rust lines.
With a fine brush I applied a layer of Rustoleum.
More small areas bit by bit until the entire engine
compartment was cleaned up and had one layer of paint.
I then wet sanded all the drips and obvious brush
strokes. I then applied another coat over all the areas.
Let dry for a week or so and again wet sanded some spots.
I then applied a final coat of semi-gloss clear.
The final product is far from perfect but far better
than what I started with!!
best wishes,
tinster
T
TRDejaVu
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I was one of the people doing this. https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/436686/1 is one of the threads.
Since then I have not touched it as I want to drive it. The issue I had was with a few "burn through" spots caused by wet sanding it too heavily in a couple of places. Because of that I would only classify it as a "five-footer". If I were to do it again, and I might, I would add Penetrol to the paint mix and apply it a bit thicker. I did some experiments doing that and there were no issues - wish I knew about that before. All of that said, it came out of a barn looking bad and about $100 and quite a lot of hobby hours later I have something that I did myself and I am not embarrassed to drive.
Since then I have not touched it as I want to drive it. The issue I had was with a few "burn through" spots caused by wet sanding it too heavily in a couple of places. Because of that I would only classify it as a "five-footer". If I were to do it again, and I might, I would add Penetrol to the paint mix and apply it a bit thicker. I did some experiments doing that and there were no issues - wish I knew about that before. All of that said, it came out of a barn looking bad and about $100 and quite a lot of hobby hours later I have something that I did myself and I am not embarrassed to drive.
T
TRDejaVu
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I got all my information from a Mopar forum. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...part=1&vc=1
Be warned it takes a long time to read through the threads and as people got experienced they modified the technique. They also started using a boat paint as well.
I used 4" high density rollers and foam brushes and did about 9 thin coats. I wet sanded from 800 all the way up to a 2000 grit. As mentioned, wet sanding a very thin coat is where I caused a few burn through's.
Be warned it takes a long time to read through the threads and as people got experienced they modified the technique. They also started using a boat paint as well.
I used 4" high density rollers and foam brushes and did about 9 thin coats. I wet sanded from 800 all the way up to a 2000 grit. As mentioned, wet sanding a very thin coat is where I caused a few burn through's.
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Back in the thirty's when my dad was in his twenty's, he worked in a body shop. That's when a lot of cars had lacquer bodies and enamel fenders. He said they painted the fenders with a brush by loading up the fender heavy with paint and then using a large camel hair brush they would wipe off the excess paint. He said the finish, when dry, looked like glass.
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
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In the past, I've painted my racer partly with Rustoleum. It seems soft and takes quite a while to get a really hard coat.
This time I used acrylic enamel from ~These Guys~ .
All you add is reducer (which they also sell)...it's pretty simple. Their paint (I bought British Racing green) is $35 a gallon (for normal colours).
My car is a race car so my prep was pretty quick and dirty (in other words, <span style="font-style: italic">almost none</span>).
But I'm happy with the results and learned a lot by doing it (I sprayed it).
With more prep work and care, I know I could get a decent finish with this stuff.
It gets a lot harder, quicker than Rustoleum.
This time I used acrylic enamel from ~These Guys~ .
All you add is reducer (which they also sell)...it's pretty simple. Their paint (I bought British Racing green) is $35 a gallon (for normal colours).
My car is a race car so my prep was pretty quick and dirty (in other words, <span style="font-style: italic">almost none</span>).
But I'm happy with the results and learned a lot by doing it (I sprayed it).
With more prep work and care, I know I could get a decent finish with this stuff.
It gets a lot harder, quicker than Rustoleum.
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Good grief Nial, I had to bookmark their web page. I can't believe their prices. The paint on my car cost over $300.00 a gallon! At $46.00 a gallon, I would certanly take a chance on their paint. Clear coated, I would think it would hold up well. How is your paint holding up?
At $46.00 a gallon, I first thought it was house paint!
At $46.00 a gallon, I first thought it was house paint!
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
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It's holding up fine.
Actually, in the 50s, many (most?) cars were painted with this stuff.
It doesn't look as good as it could due to my poor prep work, but that's not the fault of the paint.
If I had taken more time with the sanding and cleaning, it would have turned out better....next time.
Many racers use acrylic enamel since it's cheaper and doesn't need to look show-quality....and a lot of those cars look pretty darn good.
Remember: for racing we only need it to be "50/50"
(Official NASA rule--paint must look good from 50 feet at 50 mph :laugh: )
Actually, in the 50s, many (most?) cars were painted with this stuff.
It doesn't look as good as it could due to my poor prep work, but that's not the fault of the paint.
If I had taken more time with the sanding and cleaning, it would have turned out better....next time.
Many racers use acrylic enamel since it's cheaper and doesn't need to look show-quality....and a lot of those cars look pretty darn good.
Remember: for racing we only need it to be "50/50"
(Official NASA rule--paint must look good from 50 feet at 50 mph :laugh: )
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Ah, the $50 paint job...I've seen one & from about 10 feet it looked pretty good.....lots of labor though!
martx-5
Yoda
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I did the $40 Paint Job as posted in this thread. I didn't use Rust-O-Leum, but the marine paint Brightside. You can see in the pics, this paint really looks good. It was alot of work, but I like the way it came out. In that same thread, go to page two and see my post on the progress and final outcome of the job. I won't go into the details here, as I wrote pretty extensively about it in that earlier thread.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Art - The one I saw was painted with marine paint!
bugimike
Yoda
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I would definitely recommend Marine paint for the DIYer...it is formulated to provide a hard, tough finish, unlike Rustoleum which takes forever to get hard. Rustoleum also breaks down and will wash off with common solvents, but a good marine paint will resist many solvents (think tree sap, etc.!). The key is a two-part nature of the paint which provides the catalyst for the hardening! Better than Brightsides (but also trickier to apply)is Awl-grip (a two-part epoxy paint which is even resistant to laquer thinner when cured!!!)
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Just talked to a friend who paints custom cars & hot rods in his body shop. He said there's nothing wrong with Acrylic enamel automotive paint and it will come out looking like glass if mixed properly and the viscosity is right along with proper base preparation. He strongly emphasized proper base preparation! He said the amount of pigmentation in the paint and the color, such as Red, for one, which is a high price pigment, is just one of the reasons for the cost differential. He also said, don't use the price of any paint as a bases of whether it's better than another brand. The pearls and paint with metal flakes will naturally cost more.