-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Paint over galvanized parts?
- Thread starter TomMull
- Start date
Share this page
OP
Offline
It would appear from what I can find that it it difficult but not impossible to get it to stick. But does one gain anything? That part will be hidden so will not be seen until the next owner replaces it so I'm interested only in corrosion resistance. (I took more than half of the original part out of the car with my shop vac.)
Offline
I soak parts in POR15 Metal Ready prep solution and that seems to have worked.
Offline
Dumb question: how are cars with galvanized sheet metal painted?
...found the answer here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/painting-galvanized-steel/71891/page1/
Javelin posts, "Ooh, ooh, ask the guy that sells steel for a living!!!
It depends on the galvanizing. Standard galvanized (with "spangle") is coated with zinc in a "hot dip" process. This is a thick coating that leaves a satin, greyish surface. Electrogalv is the same coating, only applied differently, and much, much thinner. This is typically "brighter" and reflective. Neither is suitable for painting whatsoever. Not only will paint not stick to the coating, but sanding the coating is hazardous and you might as well just use regular old hot roll steel (mild steel) if you do that.
Now, Galvalume (or Algalume) is galvanization with 55% aluminum and 45% zinc. Galvalume is much better suited to painting and corrosion resistance. As a bonus, it has some heat-resistant qualities. This is fairly easy to find and only slightly more expensive than regular galvanization.
Lastly is Galvannealed or "Satin Coat". This is a regular hot-dip galvanized 9all zinc) that's immediately heat treated (annealed), which alloys the steel with the zinc. The finish has no spangle and is a dull matte grey finish. This is the galvanization that car manufacturers use. You can weld it and paint it with no ill effects whatsoever. It is also extremely durable, being an actual alloy. This is more expensive, but well worth the money.
Evan: try finding a local to you metal sales place, either a supplier (like what I work for) or a sheetmetal shop. You should be able to buy Galvalume all the way down to 30 gauge (it's very common in the steel siding/roofing industry) and Galvannealed down to 22 gauge.
Hope that helps!"
Now I know!
...found the answer here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/painting-galvanized-steel/71891/page1/
Javelin posts, "Ooh, ooh, ask the guy that sells steel for a living!!!
It depends on the galvanizing. Standard galvanized (with "spangle") is coated with zinc in a "hot dip" process. This is a thick coating that leaves a satin, greyish surface. Electrogalv is the same coating, only applied differently, and much, much thinner. This is typically "brighter" and reflective. Neither is suitable for painting whatsoever. Not only will paint not stick to the coating, but sanding the coating is hazardous and you might as well just use regular old hot roll steel (mild steel) if you do that.
Now, Galvalume (or Algalume) is galvanization with 55% aluminum and 45% zinc. Galvalume is much better suited to painting and corrosion resistance. As a bonus, it has some heat-resistant qualities. This is fairly easy to find and only slightly more expensive than regular galvanization.
Lastly is Galvannealed or "Satin Coat". This is a regular hot-dip galvanized 9all zinc) that's immediately heat treated (annealed), which alloys the steel with the zinc. The finish has no spangle and is a dull matte grey finish. This is the galvanization that car manufacturers use. You can weld it and paint it with no ill effects whatsoever. It is also extremely durable, being an actual alloy. This is more expensive, but well worth the money.
Evan: try finding a local to you metal sales place, either a supplier (like what I work for) or a sheetmetal shop. You should be able to buy Galvalume all the way down to 30 gauge (it's very common in the steel siding/roofing industry) and Galvannealed down to 22 gauge.
Hope that helps!"
Now I know!
Hi,
I used to work for a HGV trailer manufacure , and we produced a lot of galvanised and then painted parts and trailers - the galv bits are first given a Mordant solution to clean and etch before paint , see below
Ivan
[h=1]Rustbuster T-Wash Mordant Solution for the Treatment of New Galvanised Surfaces Prior to Painting[/h]
I used to work for a HGV trailer manufacure , and we produced a lot of galvanised and then painted parts and trailers - the galv bits are first given a Mordant solution to clean and etch before paint , see below
Ivan
[h=1]Rustbuster T-Wash Mordant Solution for the Treatment of New Galvanised Surfaces Prior to Painting[/h]