• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Only women bleed

Share this page

T

TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
...and anyone with hydraulic systems.


My TR3 developed a miss a few months back. I noticed the distributor shaft had worn the long bushing at the bottom so much that the top of the shaft (nearest the rotor) had about half an inch of play. I was impressed that it still ran, but attributed it to the Crane (window) ignition system because points would never tolerate that much slop. I'm not sure why that happened in on 13,000 miles -something must be off balance/bent. Anyway, it took me a while to finally cobble together some parts including some gracious donations from a fellow member (Thanks again Randy). My "new" unit has the correct date code and the vacuum module seems better than the "old" one I had, but after getting it all together, it wouldn't start. Somehow I screwed up the timing. After straightening out my mess, I wanted to take it for a ride.

I have the HVDA internal hydraulic throw out bearing and it was working fine when I drove it a few months ago. I am not getting enough travel to disengage the clutch. I keep getting air bubbles when I bleed it, but some might be from the rubber coupling around the bleed screw. I tried starting in gear with the clutch in, but the car lunges. I'm wondering if my clutch is rusted/stuck to the flywheel. I'm also wondering if I'm not able to bleed properly because I have a bolt added to provide a pedal stop -which (intentionally) limits the travel of the bearing.

I'm sort of thinking out loud, but would appreciate suggestions. This is the only car I've ever owned that breaks down while it's parked and never while I'm driving it. This is the first time it's broke down twice without being driven.
 
Certainly could be the clutch stuck to the flywheel. My solution to that is to go ahead and drive the car, while holding the clutch pedal down. Start it in gear and let it roll, then turn the key off to stop or switch first/reverse (if necessary). Last time it happened to me, I didn't even make it out of the driveway before the plate came loose, and it hasn't happened since.
 
I've had a couple of cars that were bad to have the clutch plate rust and stick to the flywheel. One was a 76 TR6 and other a 69 XKE coupe. I woule have to crank them up, let the engine warm up,a bit. Then crank in gear with clutch depressed. The 6 would usually pop and start working correctly. The E type would take a few lurches before it would pop. Both would have sat for a while in an open building so I figured moisture was getting inside.

marv
 
CJD said:
You're keeping that car out of the water down there, I hope!?!
Click to expand...

Well... my 4x4 truck was sitting in the driveway Monday night. When we returned home in the VW Passat, I decided the water was getting too deep when it started covering the headlights a few blocks from home. I backed up and parked in a raised driveway. We waded towards home. When we got to water as high as my crotch (I am 6'1", but don't know my crotch height), we doubled back, and waded around the block. It was raining very hard. Negotiating a few feet of water while trying to stay on the "higher" sidewalk in the fast moving river that used to be a street with lawns, was challenging. We were both holding onto an umbrella, though staying dry was just a dream. Our house happens to be slightly higher. I could see the edge of the front sidewalk and most of the lawn. The tires on my truck barely got wet. I suppose the humidity was high enough to stick my TR3 clutch in the "dry" garage. Prudence and I were singing and laughing in the rain. At 7am, I walked back to where we ditched the car and drove the dry streets back home. It was an adventure.
 
I removed the bolt under the clutch pedal to allow maximum throw, to no avail. I started and allowed the engine to warm. I pushed the car (backwards) out of the garage and drifted down the shallow incline almost all the way to the street -about 40 feet. I started the car in gear with the clutch pressed in all the way (plus some) and blipped the throttle as soon as it started. The tires chirped upon acceleration, and again on deceleration, twice, then the engine revved as if the clutch were pressed in. Just for fun I put it in reverse (with no grinding) backed down and pulled back into the garage, reinstalled the pedal stop to the same position, and went for a test drive around the block. Apparently some of my neighbors have not seen my 'little car'. There was much rejoicing. My efforts can now return to the normally scheduled maintenance, or elsewhere.

It wasn't until I started this thread that I even considered the clutch being stuck. I was perplexed and nearly positive I had a bleeding issue even though there was no indication of any sort of hydraulic failure. Before today, I never saw a clutch stick, or unstuck. You know you belong to a great forum, when the mere act of posting a question provides the answer you seek. Thanks for taking part.
 
I grew up in New Orleans...stuck clutches were pretty common anytime cars sat for a few weeks in that city.
 
I've 2-3 experiences with a rusted/frozen clutch. I jack up the rear end of the vehicle, somehow, sit in the car with it in 2nd gear, hold the clutch pedal down, and have a buddy push it off the jack, the shock breaks the clutch free every time. Never broken a tranny (yet).
 
Back
Top