TR2/3/3A One Person TR3 Brake Bleeding Option?

[tenderle]

How about temporarily substituting a long 5/16" or 3/8" bolt or all-thread for the brake pedal limit stop screw found on the Girling-braked TR3s? One could then pressurize the m/c by screwing in the longer bolt enough to move the pedal & piston a substantial amount. While pressurized, bleed each caliper/wheel cylinder in the usual manner. When finished, re-install the original stop screw. Works for the clutch m/c, too.

Stop screws were omitted from later TR3s, but the screw mounting holes remained on the master cylinder mounting bracket. Or did they? I might have an earlier style bracket mounted on my 1960 car. There's only one part number (203239) listed in the parts manual.

It may be that the designated HU709 pedal limit stop screw (1/4-28 x 1 1/8") might work without substitution, although the 1/4" diameter might not prove to be up to the task.

Thanks for listening,
Ted Enderle

 

[Geo Hahn]

I think the holes in that bracket remained long after the stop bolts were discontinued. I put bolts in mine to take up a bit of slop in the clevis pin/pedal holes:

Someday I'll weld & redrill or bush those holes.

I think I see what you're saying but wonder if the pressure from a single pedal depression would be enough to do a good bleed of one wheel, let alone 4. Guess it depends how much bleeding you need -- I probably run more fluid through there than I need to just to be sure it is good.

I have done a solo bleed with a homemade pressure bleeder using low air pressure and a modified reservoir cap:

 

[tenderle]

I was thinking of this as a way to hold pressure in the system while bleeding. Like you, I've been using compressed air to pressurize the system to maybe 12 psi through a modified reservoir cap arrangement. But I'm not wild about pressurizing the less than robust reservoir can. I screw the replacment pedal stop screw in until the brake lights go on, then tighten the lock nut to keep the piston in place. I've read that brake light switches typically activate at 60 to 120 psi.

Ted Enderle

 

[sail]

I don't sell em. Speed Bleeders. Simple, easy to do it yourself, just keep MC topped off. Cheaper than dinner for your helper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f25b1ec54&vxp=mtr

 

[charleyf]

I use a bleeder bottle as sold by TRF. You just need to have some fluid in the bottom of the bottle, enough to cover the center tube. Then attach the tubing to the bleed screw and make sure that the tubing goes above the bleed screw for a few inches. Open the bleed screw then you can pump the brakes or clutch all you want ( or until the master cylinder runs dry). The fluid and air will come out and the elevated tubing will not allow any air back into the system. When you get no more bubbles in the tubing, tighten the screw and move on to the next wheel.
Charley

 

[TR3driver]

Ditto on the speed bleeders (though I found them at FLAPS for less than half the flea-bay price above).

Simple, easy, no chance of damaging the reservoir or contaminating the brake fluid (compressed air frequently contains oil, water and/or dirt; none of which you want in your braking system).

 

[sp53]

I like it Ted. Keepme posted on how it turns out because it makes sense to me anyway. I tried the pressurizingstuff, but did not have good success, and when I tried the check valve bleedson the front, I could not get them to seal right. Moreover, it seems to me thathaving the MC open some would help the fluid and air move out easier with anenhanced gravity bleed.

 

[HerronScott]

I use a bleeder bottle as sold by TRF. You just need to have some fluid in the bottom of the bottle, enough to cover the center tube. Then attach the tubing to the bleed screw and make sure that the tubing goes above the bleed screw for a few inches. Open the bleed screw then you can pump the brakes or clutch all you want ( or until the master cylinder runs dry). The fluid and air will come out and the elevated tubing will not allow any air back into the system. When you get no more bubbles in the tubing, tighten the screw and move on to the next wheel.
Charley

Charley,

I was going to reply that's how I've always done it except with my own mason jar and tube but I checked out TRF's version and it looks like they have one that has a one-way valve in the cap.

"Now, a second type of bleeder bottle is also available. It includes a one-way check valve in the cap.
This allows easier brake bleeding that can be done by one person."

Scott

 

[Geo Hahn]

...that's how I've always done it except with my own mason jar and tube...

The bleeding procedure in one of the TR shop manuals specifies the use of a 'clean pickle jar', and I always pay attention to the manual...

I keep it with my 'fluffy lint-free rags'.

 

[glemon]

I have the speed bleeders, did notice that it can be hard to generate enough pressure to open the one way valve if you are starting from an empty or new system, and Randall is right, you can go to the local chain store and get them for much less than the e-bay price. I have a bleeder bottle with a one way valve in it I just used when I put a new clutch master cylinder on my TR250, it worked great. But will add that a the clutch is a pretty easy bleed on the later TRs, you can practically just open the bleeder and let gravity do the work.

 

[Crankshaft]

I watched a video on Moss Motors YouTube series about "gravity bleeding" the brake system. I would like to replace all the fluid in the system with fresh and am wondering if this will work since I have the Eze Bleeders installed and also if it will work as well for the clutch.

 

[TR3driver]

I doubt it will work with the EZ bleeders installed, not enough force to overcome the spring in the check valve.

I've used gravity bleeding in the front; but I have my residual pressure valve disabled. I suspect it wouldn't work with the RP valve operational, for the same reason.

Didn't work so good in the rear, though (which is why I bought the EZ bleeders). Might have worked better if the front of the car was up higher, didn't occur to me at the time to try that.