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One of you guys had great pictures of front apron

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J

Jerry

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just recently, but I can't find by searching. Perhaps it was in a off site picture storehouse. I need the front apron below the mouth (large mouth) of a TR3A. My under lip is quite bent and the bumper mount plates are also. I need to start some bending and adjusting. Does anyone have those pictures or similar?

Pictures are coming of our project, we took lots today on the first day of tear down. Our 1960 TR3A looks to be salvagable. Passenger front fender is beat up, and the under lip of the front apron but mostly small dents and some bondo elimination in other areas. It is hard to say what color it was originally. I saw baby blue in spots, white, and black. It is now a copper/rust metallic that looks bad.

As others have done, I get to practice welding and body work. Thanks to this site for the record of previous projects.

Jerry
TR3A
 
And here's my 1958 TR3A getting ready for fresh paintwork in 2007. I had it painted in 1965, then again during the restoration in 1990.
 
Maybe these as I straightened mine:

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I went out to the garage today and actually got the front apron almost ready. Thanks for the pictures. I have two spots still to work on and some questions:
1. My dent puller leaves holes when the studs pull out, do you fill them via weld or what?
2. The very bottom front lip was bent flat at some point and I have not been able to get the rounded look in one section of the bottom lip. Can I heat the metal to make it easier to bend? Anything to watch for while heating?
3. The passenger side bumper mounting point was bent in rather than out. It has some cracks in the metal. I was going to weld those from the back side of the apron, but I wanted to know if that was a good idea?

Thanks.

Jerry
 
Hey Jerry,If you check out Macysgarage.com they have a section on "bodywork basics" that details the restoration of a tr3 apron that you may find helpfull.
Tom
 
Then I will have to buy a new grill, mine is mangled. I was just at Macygarage last night but missed that section. I was looking at all his installation kits.

Jerry
 
I had to raise the top round part of the opening to fit my new grille in 1999. I used a small hyraulic jack and plywood etc. as shown.
 
Mine looks like your dented in model, at least till yesterday. I have spent about 5 hours on it so far. Still, having trouble with the lower lip. I am going to have to heat it to get the proper bend back in. The passenger bumper flange was a challenge also.

Jerry
 
Hey Jerry,

Heating is one of those good/bad deals. It will help work out the lip, but if you heat any of the flat areas it will distort them. But sheet metal does reach a point where it has work hardened too much to bend, and heating that area red hot will restore the maliability to work it some more. It takes a lot of patience to work till youre satisfied.

I'd be interested in seeing a pic or two...

John
 
#871731 See this on the previous page. It has my link to Picassa.
I am going to the Clovis, CA car show this weekend where I hope to see a TR3 or two and get a good look at the curve of the bottom lip.

I don't see anyway to fix it without heat. It is currently so springy, I cannot bend it in the right place.

I also want to say that those dent pullers that use weld on pins and a slide hammer work really well. I have most of the dents out of the car now. One in the drivers door had 3/8 inch of bondo. Now it will need a 1/16-1/8 skim of filler depending on the final tapping with a hammer.
The front edge of the door is sticking out a little from the edge of the front fender. It is almost like I need to put a board up against it and wack it.

This is fun learning a new skill. I never thought I had the patience.

Jerry
I have more pictures coming from yesterdays work. I have not uploaded them yet.
 
Hi Jerry
I'm happy to come over and lend a hand or provide some ideas. I'm not a pro but have done some decent metal work on my TR3A. I'll send you a PM.
Pat
 
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