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One for Doc
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tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Adenauer? That's what I do when I turn the clocks back in the fall :thumbsup:
OP
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Jeez - how 'bout you doing the restoration, then sending it my way for a few decades of test drives?
Besides - I'm old enough to know why it was often called an Adenauer, and to remember what the gentleman's voice sounded like.
So snap it up with your pocket change, fix up the nasty bits, and send it to Connecticut. Sound like a plan?
(But it's not nearly as good looking as the old crate I'm considering ...) <hint hint>
T.
Besides - I'm old enough to know why it was often called an Adenauer, and to remember what the gentleman's voice sounded like.
So snap it up with your pocket change, fix up the nasty bits, and send it to Connecticut. Sound like a plan?
(But it's not nearly as good looking as the old crate I'm considering ...) <hint hint>
T.
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That's just it... ain't MY wallet gonna take this hit. He'd some illusion it could be done for about half of my WAG. I was conservative, too.
Oh well. There's a pair of Rollie Princess' in th' wings. "Just make 'em run" is what the guy wants... haven't seen 'em yet, if it's just carbs and iggy stuff I'll do it. If it goes to headwork, etc. I'm out.
Whatcha got cookin'?
Oh well. There's a pair of Rollie Princess' in th' wings. "Just make 'em run" is what the guy wants... haven't seen 'em yet, if it's just carbs and iggy stuff I'll do it. If it goes to headwork, etc. I'm out.
Whatcha got cookin'?
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Nutmeg's looking for a 220S.
OP
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yep - a ponton 220S. Like this:
https://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/freemangarden/220S1958/
General impressions: good. Not great, but good for what I'm looking for. Relatively strong body/frame/engine/trans, roadworthy (with some tweaking), cosmetic work already done. Sold by sons of the elderly owner.
Car was repainted and given new seat covers in 1997. Done professionally, with what appears to be a close approximation of the original color paint DB 335 H (# on the paint plate). The H indicates the paint was supplied to Daimler Benz by Dr. Herbert, who mixed the colors back in the 1950s. No evidence of rust or bubbling anywhere on the finish, except for a small ding on the scuttle just in front of the driver side; ding looks like it was the result of dropping the corner of the hood. Passes my magnet test for bondo.
Front and rear bumpers have heavy pitting. Not rust through, but the pitting itself it "rusty". All other chrome inside and outside has very light pitting.
All interior wood looks resurfaced and re-lacquered, satin finish. Ceiling cloth looks either new or very well cared for.
Becker Europa and clock not functioning.
No rust under carpets or mats or jute in floor wells. Original carpets and padding.
No evidence of leaks on the ground front or rear. Oil pan is dirty and oily, but not "wet". Same for rear axle.
Opened hood, noticed all of the rubber (i.e. radiator hoses) and original cardboard (air ducts, air baffles) needs replacement. Engine bay is not clean. Not filthy, but looks like my Mazda engine looked after ten years before I clean it up. Side of engine block is oily dirty, but not "shiny" and wet.
Radiator is topped up with green coolant. Oil stick shows full, but it's *very* thick - literally like molasses. The 10F temp may have something to do with that.
Car had been outside for the last week, altho' the last 15 years inside.
Battery was nearly dead. We jumped it and cranked with choke knob fully pulled out, and managed to flood the carbs. Finally got it started. Runs *very* smoothly once it warmed up, about 3 minutes. No thumping at warm idle (which to me would indicate worn main bearings).
I'd never used a Hydrak. Took about 15 minutes 'til I felt I even had a clue. Shift lever is very loose; I'd call it "sloppy". Also seems to take quite a bit of lever movement to disengage the clutch. However, when the gear is selected and lever released, clutch engages quickly and smoothly, without a "bump". If you don't wait a second or two for the release, you can get a "grind" trying to shift into first.
Concerned about that sloppy shift lever and "slow" clutch release. Linkage problem I suspect, most likely one or both bushing at the gearbox.
All gauges, lights and instruments work; gauges read "believably". Right front headlamp is loose inside bezel. Didn't try to dig around it to find out why.
I was very pleased with what I took to be a smoothly running and idling engine. Full gas, fast reaction. Not exactly a Dodge 426 HEMI, but certainly more power than I feel from my 4 cylinder Mazda.
Compression readings 138-145psi on the cylinders.
Undercarriage wasn't new paint. Looked like original blue paint, with some flaking off. No trace of corrosion (ice pick test) in any frame, sills, under doors, etc. Just some "old dirt".
Numbers are correct and verified. Came off the MB line in Stuttgart in summer of 1958; engine was made a few weeks before the chassis. Particular items indicate the car was made on request: special order paint color, and both European and USA style turn signal switches. Has all the chrome for the 220S (altho' pitted). Also has all the European spec lights, including the Hella fog lights and "pie segment" non-equal low beam lens over the small headlamp bulb on the passenger side.
All lights and devices work except heater blower and passenger side wiper arm. Also passed my ice-pick rust-through test, at least as far as I could reach.
Any thoughts? (ranging from "looks like a winner!" to "you idiot - get a Yugo!")
T.
https://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/freemangarden/220S1958/
General impressions: good. Not great, but good for what I'm looking for. Relatively strong body/frame/engine/trans, roadworthy (with some tweaking), cosmetic work already done. Sold by sons of the elderly owner.
Car was repainted and given new seat covers in 1997. Done professionally, with what appears to be a close approximation of the original color paint DB 335 H (# on the paint plate). The H indicates the paint was supplied to Daimler Benz by Dr. Herbert, who mixed the colors back in the 1950s. No evidence of rust or bubbling anywhere on the finish, except for a small ding on the scuttle just in front of the driver side; ding looks like it was the result of dropping the corner of the hood. Passes my magnet test for bondo.
Front and rear bumpers have heavy pitting. Not rust through, but the pitting itself it "rusty". All other chrome inside and outside has very light pitting.
All interior wood looks resurfaced and re-lacquered, satin finish. Ceiling cloth looks either new or very well cared for.
Becker Europa and clock not functioning.
No rust under carpets or mats or jute in floor wells. Original carpets and padding.
No evidence of leaks on the ground front or rear. Oil pan is dirty and oily, but not "wet". Same for rear axle.
Opened hood, noticed all of the rubber (i.e. radiator hoses) and original cardboard (air ducts, air baffles) needs replacement. Engine bay is not clean. Not filthy, but looks like my Mazda engine looked after ten years before I clean it up. Side of engine block is oily dirty, but not "shiny" and wet.
Radiator is topped up with green coolant. Oil stick shows full, but it's *very* thick - literally like molasses. The 10F temp may have something to do with that.
Car had been outside for the last week, altho' the last 15 years inside.
Battery was nearly dead. We jumped it and cranked with choke knob fully pulled out, and managed to flood the carbs. Finally got it started. Runs *very* smoothly once it warmed up, about 3 minutes. No thumping at warm idle (which to me would indicate worn main bearings).
I'd never used a Hydrak. Took about 15 minutes 'til I felt I even had a clue. Shift lever is very loose; I'd call it "sloppy". Also seems to take quite a bit of lever movement to disengage the clutch. However, when the gear is selected and lever released, clutch engages quickly and smoothly, without a "bump". If you don't wait a second or two for the release, you can get a "grind" trying to shift into first.
Concerned about that sloppy shift lever and "slow" clutch release. Linkage problem I suspect, most likely one or both bushing at the gearbox.
All gauges, lights and instruments work; gauges read "believably". Right front headlamp is loose inside bezel. Didn't try to dig around it to find out why.
I was very pleased with what I took to be a smoothly running and idling engine. Full gas, fast reaction. Not exactly a Dodge 426 HEMI, but certainly more power than I feel from my 4 cylinder Mazda.
Compression readings 138-145psi on the cylinders.
Undercarriage wasn't new paint. Looked like original blue paint, with some flaking off. No trace of corrosion (ice pick test) in any frame, sills, under doors, etc. Just some "old dirt".
Numbers are correct and verified. Came off the MB line in Stuttgart in summer of 1958; engine was made a few weeks before the chassis. Particular items indicate the car was made on request: special order paint color, and both European and USA style turn signal switches. Has all the chrome for the 220S (altho' pitted). Also has all the European spec lights, including the Hella fog lights and "pie segment" non-equal low beam lens over the small headlamp bulb on the passenger side.
All lights and devices work except heater blower and passenger side wiper arm. Also passed my ice-pick rust-through test, at least as far as I could reach.
Any thoughts? (ranging from "looks like a winner!" to "you idiot - get a Yugo!")
T.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Looks like the one! Haven't you brought it home yet?
Knox Custom Chrome can redo those bumpers!
Knox Custom Chrome can redo those bumpers!
Online
Adenauers? Ain't them those things they take out wit' yer tonsils?
OP
Offline
Well, I also like the Adenauer myself, but it's not exactly what I'd use as a "weekend driver". That "grosser Mercedes 300" (Adenauer) W186 had a 6 cylinder overhead valve carbureted engine (car weighed 2 1/2 tons), central lubrication system, swing axle, and rear load leveler. Options included several Becker radio models, VHF short-waved telephone, and dictation machine. Reminds me of my first car, which I got as a freshman in college, Jaguar Mk VII. If a Greyhound bus hit that car, the bus would roll over, and the Jag just shrug and drive away. But my Jag didn't have a dictating machine!
I've got one more check-up visit on that 220S, but I feel pretty positive about it. Of course, the next four days are snow and freezing rain ...
... but still thinking positive, I've already got the insurance set up. Not that I'm jumping the gun or anything.
Tom
I've got one more check-up visit on that 220S, but I feel pretty positive about it. Of course, the next four days are snow and freezing rain ...
... but still thinking positive, I've already got the insurance set up. Not that I'm jumping the gun or anything.
Tom
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
So, when does the road trip begin?
I'm thinking we're gonna do the Route 66 thing next summer in the 'vette.
I'm thinking we're gonna do the Route 66 thing next summer in the 'vette.
OP
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Tony - I plan to spend the spring and summer getting the car back to roadworthy, as much as I can. It was actually built for the German Autobahn system, but I'm afraid not all the car's parts have endured the last 50 years equally as well. Of course, neither have my own parts ....
Then in the fall, with a net behind the car for catching what drops off, it'll be CT to WA, then down Rt 101, then through the great southwest, southeast, and up the Atlantic coast. Visiting family, friends, and former colleagues and students along the way - a month or two, or as long as the car can move.
Or if worse comes to worst, it may be a day's drive to the Hudson, then sell the car for parts and live in a tent.
What's that old bumper sticker? "All parts falling off this car are of the finest German engineering!"
T.
Then in the fall, with a net behind the car for catching what drops off, it'll be CT to WA, then down Rt 101, then through the great southwest, southeast, and up the Atlantic coast. Visiting family, friends, and former colleagues and students along the way - a month or two, or as long as the car can move.
Or if worse comes to worst, it may be a day's drive to the Hudson, then sell the car for parts and live in a tent.
What's that old bumper sticker? "All parts falling off this car are of the finest German engineering!"
T.
Offline
Hopefully a Lehigh Valley stop will be made with the remains of the car on your last leg home...
