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old harware versus new

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fmichaels

fmichaels

Jedi Knight
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okay, so i'm in the process of removing hardware from bags that have sat for 25 years covered in grease, dirt, and rust. i basically use a grinder with a wire wheel to clean them off and then unofficially inspect them. what criteria to you use to judge whether to reuse them or not? i know about obvious wear and rust, but some of this hardware cleans up nicely. additionally, i have found, as many of you have as well, that replacement parts are not always the same tolerance. i recently bought a rear suspension shock absorber link and it 3/4" shorted than the original.
 
On critical areas (suspension/steering/braking) I'd go new. When you clean the hardware you remove some of the plating that prevents corrosion.
 
On critical areas (suspension/steering/braking) I'd go new. When you clean the hardware you remove some of the plating that prevents corrosion.

Oh, and 1/2 elliptical links are different from 1/4 elliptical links (i think)
 
i agree with you on the critical areas. in some cases, that's the nicer material. other areas such as body hardware and fittings are basically shot. in general, i am finding levels of pitting and material loss due to rust. i actually found that in most cases, parts covered in grease held up rather well over the years
 
Yep grease and undercoat saved a lot of stuff on Miss Agatha.

Obvious wear I pitched it. If it had moveing parts it was restored to orginial or new item bought. All nuts and bolts replated. I don't know it is hard to say, make it like factory new and it will work just fine.
 
i do find that most of the hardware looks fine after cleaning. i figure if it fits snug and gets painted, it should last awhile. i figure once the car is drivable, it's time in the elements will be very limited. i don't intend on driving through a snow blizzard or downpour (unless i get caught). as far as bolts, screws, nuts and washers, i could spend $40 a week or more with VB if i wanted to. those little things add up. i read a lot of posts about removing the parts carefully and bagging them. the fact is, when i stripped the car 25 years ago i never really paid a lot attention to the care or removal since i figured it would all have to be replaced anyway. the bottom line is that the bagged material is almost gold to me now if i can salvage a nut or bolt. ah the innocence of youth!
 
Please note that some new hardware is made more cheaply then the old stuff and may actually be weaker then hardware that is 25 years old.

That said, I do use new hardware for brakes, suspension, engine and other critical components under the following terms.

ARP bolts and studs whenever possible for engine components.

I check the originals for wear. If they look good I use them, if they do not then I buy the aftermarket parts new and say a prayer to bless the item.

Patrick
 
so far i have stayed away from going to pepboys or advanced auto for anything other than tools and cleaner, but this weekend i will venture into the nuts and blots isle to see what goodies i can snag. i am very leary of the quality of some of the hardware these stores stock. on suspension, brakes and engine/trans, i depend mainly on moss/VB.
 
I am also leary of VB and Moss (lets say for U-Bolts and the like). VB and Moss are using aftermarket vendors which IMHO, are not as good as 25 yr old stuff in good condition.

I usually use the old fashioned hardware store and get grade 5 or better. If they do not have the bolt, I cleanup the old and inspect it. I always put new washers and nuts on the 25yr old stuff.
 
well i'll be testing your theory since i just bought 4 u-bolts and hardware from moss. my old bolts had necked thin from age and rust. no saving them. as a matter of fact, all the hardware for the rear leaf springs and mounts was scrapped including some of the bracket plates simply due to condition. i will be reassembling that this weekend along with some new poly bushings and pads.
 
I did the same from Moss, but with a 1/4 elliptical without any problems.

Patrick
 
so far everything fits well so far. it should look great when it's done. saying that, i will probably have some pictures next week as well. i have the tub that was cut in half and it's since been reworked. i have another cosmetic surgery planned for the tub but for now i am fitting the pieces back together to make sure the new tub takes the old parts. so far so good.
 
Most of the nuts and bolts on a Spridget are standard items from any hardware store.
The only problem with Pepboys, Home cheapo, or most modern hardware stores is that they buy cheap asian made nuts and bolts.
Check your local yellow pages for a nut and bolt supplier.
I have one local and all I have to do is ask for US made hardware. Grade 5, grade 8, nickle plated, stainless in most better grades are all in stock but in 100 ct boxes.
But a box of 100 5/16 bolts is only 5 or 6 bucks. That's what VB & Mo$$ get for 2 or 3 bolts.
$50 spent at the right place and all the common nuts, bolts, washers, and screws are replaced.
As for Spring U bolts and such, check a local RV or boat trailer shop. I found stainless and galvanized U bolts for both 1/4 and 1/2 leaf cars.
Where do you think the regular suppliers get their stuff?
 
actually i think there is a fastenal near me in norristown. i was just at advance auto and all their stuff is from taiwan.
 
But our threads are different?
 
Bolt and screw threads are different from anything else are they not? They are like British Standard Fine and Some other darn thing that is a bit corser.

I have a heck of a time finding nuts for bolts etc etc at the hardware even with so much available.

They are not US and metric just does not seem to fit right?
 
Jack:

They are SAE Fine Thread.

Also, ask for SAE Washers because they are different, with a smaller diameter and look more appropriate.

Patrick
 
The new fastenal by me actually lets you walk around the bins and pull stuff yourself. The other one only has a counter. However, they will do special order and can do 1/4" increments if you want. And Patrick makes a very good point about the washer size.
 
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