• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

oil pressure relief valve removal

Lewpok

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
I cannot get the valve plunger out of the block of my 73 1275ccMidget. Everything else came off uneventfully for a change. Any ideas?
 
Tapered paint stirring stick. Whittle it down to fit thru the bore yet wedge in the plunger. Another way is with a telescoping "pen" magnet.

Getting it all back INTO place is the real challenge. That spring gets harder to compress the longer it takes you to get the threads started. :jester:
 
I should think a dowl tapered on the end would do the trick.

I have always used an ice pick.
 
neither the tapered paint stick or telescoping magnet worked. The magnet just gets longer so the plunger doesn't move freely, the reason for the replacement. maybe an ice pick will get it free
 
Wow. It must really be stuck in there!

P'raps a wire coat hanger with a short kink in the end, say 1/2""V" to wedge into the I.D. of the plunger?
 
Is engine out of the car? If so air pressure into the oil pump hole should pop it out.
 
There's drain hole directly below the pressure regulator, that release oils directly into the oil pan once the regualator is maxed. I try some some wd40 and blow compresed air in the drain/release hole, that should giggle it loose.
 
Or... run a tap into the plunger and pull it out. Replace it with a new plunger when you put the relief valve components back in the block.
 
Those are great ideas. I replaced mine with a ball bearing. Needed to adjust spring length but solved that with an adjustable oil pressure spring cap.
 
It took a 1/4in NPT tap to get it out. It had more taper than the other taps that were available. I had to screw it in a couple of turns or it pulled loose. It took a lot of effort to work it out. The new plunger went in pretty easily compared to this; I hope the new spring is the right length.

Later, I plan to toast all of you that made suggestions. Thanks!
 
You may want to take the seat out and get it surfaced a bit too-
Pretty easy to tap it with a 5/16 either fine or coarse thread and then pull it out with a long stud.
BillM
 
Back
Top