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Oil pressure problem. Should I worry?

I use K&N whwenever possible, and Napa Gold if I can't get the K&N. Both are top notch oil filters. I do like the nut on the end of the K&N. It makes removal very easy. I also give it a spray of DCR before installing, and with that nut on top and painted engine color it looks almost original! Well, sorta.

For oil in a high mileage engine that has run dino its whole life, I would recommend staying with dino oil. Synthetics or blends may dislodge years of grunge accumulation and cause more harm than good. Castrol GTX is still fine by me, unless you're paranoid about all the zinc hype lately. In that case you can switch to the high mileage version or take your chances with a blend. I use DA Super Speed Sport 20W-50 (blend) in a few cars.

Get a good filter on there and fresh oil, topped up just above the full line. Then see what happens with that sound and go from there.
 
At least I don't have to return the oil. I have the Castrol GTX. I'll be reporting back in a few days.
 
Yup. GTX should be fine. Tappets are likely not getting a lot of oil at idle, the low pressure hot is most likely what Kerry said: bearings worn. Seems there is a rebuild in your not-too-distant future. Me too... Alfa is exhibiting the same symptoms. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif
 
Geez, I have always used fram filters? BMW's, MGB's etc. and never had a problem. I am religious at changing oil no more than 3000mi - I will switch if the b gods say so... thanks for that advise. by the way why are fram filters not the best? michael
 
After reading that article NO more fram filters for me! Also interesting that some of the "HIGH" dollar filters are clones of some of the other brand name filters. But then why not, if you can take someone elses product, stamp your name on it and make a $.
vping:
From what we read on this website, oil drainback caused by an inefficient anti drainback valve in these "Fram" filters MY be the cause of your problem! get that filter off of there A.S.A.P.
From what I read I would go with a WIX filter instead.
Change the oil and make sure you fill your crankcase up to the full line.
See what happens from there
Kerry
 
If the engine is a '67 it'll have a filter insert in a cannister. Did you do the spin-on filter update, Vince?
 
PPO did it.
4-26-07OilFilter001.jpg


Here is my inventory for my Ford Ranger, MG and Honda Odyssey.

4-26-07OilFilter004.jpg
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]What and where is this relief valve? Pics?[/QUOTE]

Numbers 22 - 26 in the illustration below:

MGB-001.gif
 
That thing is a ~mutha~ to re-install when the engine is in the car!!!

...just so you're warned, Vince. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Hopefully I can get some time tomorrow to work on her and see what gives. The last thing I want to do it pull the motor but if I gotta I'm well equipped and can handle the task. Especially with the BCF on my side.
 
vping said:
OK. I'm back to finish and reply. I get in it last night after practice and she starts fine. OP is up. I take off and the ticking is more like clacking. BUT ONLY IN FIRST and when I accelerate hard than normal. Oil level is a little low.
Scuse me for butting in, this sounds more like a chipped tooth on first gear. Not related to oil pressure problems. Hope you get it figured out.
D
 
Hi Tony, best as I can tell the relief valve is items # 22 through 26 on the drawing.---Keoke
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Hi Tony, best as I can tell the relief valve is items # 22 through 26 on the drawing.---Keoke [/QUOTE]

Yep, think that's what I said:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Numbers 22 - 26 in the illustration below:

MGB-001.gif
[/QUOTE]
 
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