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I was just wondering, have you guys ever reused the oil pan plug gasket after an oil change or do you always replace. It's a copper gasket, I believe and about 1/16" thick. Another thing, it would seem to me that a flexible material would do the job better. How about a 1/16" thick teflon based material?
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Oil Pan Plug Gasket [New or Reuse?]
- Thread starter jjbank
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You can usually reuse the old gasket several times. Copper "work hardens" - gets harder when it is compressed or bent. It can be restored to it's original softness/sealing ability by annealing it.
Using a small propane torch, stove top, or similar, - heat the gasket to red hot. Let it cool naturally or dunk it in water - comes out the same either way. Dunking it removes the black copper oxide.
Lot of newer cars use a plastic or synthetic gasket material which doesn't work harden, but soft copper is just fine.
D
Using a small propane torch, stove top, or similar, - heat the gasket to red hot. Let it cool naturally or dunk it in water - comes out the same either way. Dunking it removes the black copper oxide.
Lot of newer cars use a plastic or synthetic gasket material which doesn't work harden, but soft copper is just fine.
D
tahoe healey
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If it leaks, replace it. But they seem to last forever. I've not tried Daves method but it sounds good.
The reality is, I have to change the radiator hose because it failed on me Tuesday night. I have the spare and I am going to change it out in the next couple days. While I am doing this I also want to change my oil and I don't want to pay the shipping for ordering a new gasket to get to me in the next day or so. I will reuse it and anneal it which seems logical.
A funny thing about the radiator hose. I took the car out for a 25 mile drive on the back country roads here in SW Ohio. My wife was with and the weather was great. A truly great ride. Guess when the hose failed? Right when I pulled into my garage at the very end. Healey's are great, even when they brake they think of their owner's. I bought some Prestone last night and Castrol 20/50 was on sale for $2.18/Qt. so I decided to do both jobs.
I want to thank you guys for your responses.
A funny thing about the radiator hose. I took the car out for a 25 mile drive on the back country roads here in SW Ohio. My wife was with and the weather was great. A truly great ride. Guess when the hose failed? Right when I pulled into my garage at the very end. Healey's are great, even when they brake they think of their owner's. I bought some Prestone last night and Castrol 20/50 was on sale for $2.18/Qt. so I decided to do both jobs.
I want to thank you guys for your responses.
anthony7777
Yoda
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jjbank,no need to order from moss you can go to your local napa store and get a new one for about 35 cents, perfect size, if they dont understand what your asking for (might very well happen) just ask if you could look at their "crushable washer" selection thell come out with a plastic box with a lid containing perhaps 8-10 different sizes some brass some aluminum some with plastic center crush areas etc, when i got mine at the napa store i often frequent the guy just tossted me the washer and said no charge. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif ah ya keoke da guy prolly just wanted to get me da heck oudda darr! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
dklawson
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This seems to be an active topic for more than just Healeys at the moment.
Not to quibble about annealing, but don't quench the hot metal part in water. This is a practice performed on steel parts to harden them. Copper isn't affected as much by this, but it's not necessary. Let the part cool slowly to be fully soft and if you don't like the way it looks, drag the washer over some wet/dry paper to restore its flatness and appearance.
I buy two different types of sealing washers, both are available on the aisles of places like AdvanceAuto or AutoZone. Nylon drain plug washers are available "plain" or with rigged surfaces. Both work great and are inexpensive. On the Mini I've gone to a bonded metal/rubber seal. This looks like a steel washer with an o-ring bonded in the center hole. You tighten it up until you feel the metal parts touch and you're done. No excessive torque required and no leaks. They're more expensive than the nylon washers but last indefinitely.
Above all else, do not buy and then re-use aluminum drain plug washers. If you must re-use an aluminum drain washer for any reason, dress it flat so there are no raised burrs on it. Failure to use a flat aluminum washer can result in galled threads in the drain pan.
Not to quibble about annealing, but don't quench the hot metal part in water. This is a practice performed on steel parts to harden them. Copper isn't affected as much by this, but it's not necessary. Let the part cool slowly to be fully soft and if you don't like the way it looks, drag the washer over some wet/dry paper to restore its flatness and appearance.
I buy two different types of sealing washers, both are available on the aisles of places like AdvanceAuto or AutoZone. Nylon drain plug washers are available "plain" or with rigged surfaces. Both work great and are inexpensive. On the Mini I've gone to a bonded metal/rubber seal. This looks like a steel washer with an o-ring bonded in the center hole. You tighten it up until you feel the metal parts touch and you're done. No excessive torque required and no leaks. They're more expensive than the nylon washers but last indefinitely.
Above all else, do not buy and then re-use aluminum drain plug washers. If you must re-use an aluminum drain washer for any reason, dress it flat so there are no raised burrs on it. Failure to use a flat aluminum washer can result in galled threads in the drain pan.