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oil leaking from engine side covers

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bighealeysource

bighealeysource

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Well, finally discovered the source of my minor oil leaks
on my rebuilt BN6 engine - the side covers on the right side of engine. I replaced the cork gasket for the valve cover
with one the new silicone type and that works great - highly
recommend. Then determined that I was getting oil leaking
from the side covers. So, replaced the old cork gaskets
installed when engine rebuilt about 3 years ago with new ones.
Also used red permatex gasket silicone and applied to both
sides of the gasket hoping to get a better seal. Was that
wrong to do as should I only have applied it to the block
side ? But was putting onto metal -side cover and block-
when did both sides -thought that would be better. Now
it appears it is seeping through the bolt holding the side
covers to the block. One bolt in the center of the cover
with a brass washer only. Thinking about using the high temp
red permatex on that bolt hole - y'all think that would work ?
Wouldn't think tightening up those leaking areas would hurt
anything but know a lot out there have far more wisdom then me! I lose enough oil that it drips down onto the frame rails
and marks its territory after every tip out.
Thanks,
Mike
 
The bolt hole in the cover needs to be flat, and then use a copper sealing washer (only) between the bolthead and the cover.

Note that the torque value is VERY LOW for these two (2) bolts; overtightening them will lead to more problems.

Funny, the response on a post I made about copper sealing washings was what turned me off about this forum (and a particular participant) a few months ago. It will be interesting to see if I get lambasted again.

I looked for some pictures of the Kenlowe fan/thermostat I have on my car, but I haven't yet turned up any. I'm still trying to regenerate my enthusiasm for posting pictures here; it's definately not what it used to be.
 
randy, you happen to be one of our best sources of information on healeyes and cars in general, your photos have proven to be an invaluble service,..... if you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs and blaming it on you, if you can trust yourself when all men doubt you but make allowances for them doupting you...etc. ya know what i mean!, :wink:
 
:iagree:
That the torque value is VERY LOW for these two (2) bolts; overtightening them will lead to more problems

Consequently I suggest:
1] Simply back the bolt out a bit and apply a good gasket sealer to the backside of the existing washers and re tighten wipe excess off that squeezes out.

2] Make small paper washers and add them to the backside of the existing washers and retighten. Adding sealer here too is optional.
-----------------------Fwiw--Keoke
 
Hey y'all,
Thanks for the recommendations and advice ! Randy, got to keep posting on here or or my BN6 964 to your BN6 942 will suffer without your advice on how to properly nurture her !!! Keoke, thanks as usual to you for your advice and how to try to help my ole gal from marking her territory. Now quick question for you
both if you happen to read this again, I checked the torque settings in the
Haynes manual and did not find a setting for the side covers. What would you
call low torque ?
Thanks,
Mike
 
bighealeysource said:
Well, finally discovered the source of
... Also used red permatex gasket silicone and applied to both
sides of the gasket hoping to get a better seal. Was that
wrong to do as should I only have applied it to the block
side ?
Click to expand...

Theoretically, you don't need any sealant between a gasket and a machined surface--like the block--and 'old school' mechanics don't like sealants at all, but it won't hurt anything. Just don't overdo it--last thing you want is chunks of sealant floating around in the oil passages.

If cork and paper gaskets don't work--or you can't get them--I've had good results with this stuff:

https://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

BTW, where did you get a silicone valve cover gasket?
 
"Funny, the response on a post I made about copper sealing washings was what turned me off about this forum (and a particular participant) a few months ago. It will be interesting to see if I get lambasted again."
_______________________________________
Randy--

That WAS an unpleasant chqpter and I am glad you're back.

Mike--

I'll stick my neck out and say about 15-20 foot/lbs. You don't want to overtighten the bolt as it only distorts the plate causing it to leak. Use a small ratchet handle and choke up on it. We all have our favorite sealants for various applications and my recommendation would be Hylomar.
 
Along with my Healey, since the early 90s, I have also rebuilt and restored several Classic (65 & 66) Mustangs.

The last 3 V8 engines that I have built up had NO valve cover, oil pan, or intake manifold to block gaskets. Many newer cars don't use gaskets in these places either.

I recently took down a 302 V8 that I had built with no gaskets almost 15 years ago. No leaks anywhere! I had to take the oil pan off with a razor knife.

It's all about flatness, cleanliness, and how you apply the sealant.

Tim

PS: IMO Loc-Tite Ultra Black RTV sealant is the best there is.
 
Now quick question for you I checked the torque settings in the Haynes manual and did not find a setting for the side covers. What would you
call low torque ?

OH!!! I guess the same requirement as used on the engine front cover screws : ~12 FT/LBS-----Keoke
 
<span style="font-size: 23pt">Stop the Press!</span>

I always wanted to say that. :laugh:
One of my workshop manuals says "using a new cork gasket, tighten the bolts to 2 lb ft. Do not overtighten."
Well, actually I'm paraphrasing a bit.
 
Well now I am really :confuse: Do 2lbft = 12 FT/LBS----Keoke- :devilgrin:
 
Thanks everyone for your responses ! I'm going to pull the covers back off,
make sure they are not indented from previous owners tightening too much,
apply some sealer and new copper washers and drive on hopefully with no leaks !
Regards,
Mike
 
If anyone is dealing with this same problem I found out today that the same
company that makes the silicone valve cover gaskets also makes a silicone
side panel gasket. If I continue to have leaks with the cork I'll replace
it with the silicone ones.

www.gaasketinnovations.com

Regards,
Mike
 
Bob is correct, only have for sprites/midgets right now. Anyone out there
have an old/extra side cover that the maker can use as a mold to make one
up to fit big Healeys ? I e-mailed them this morning to ask about the 6
cyl availability and said he needs one to make a mold. If someone has one
let me know. BTW, I have no association with Gasket Innovations, just like
their product !
Thanks,
Mike
 
These silicon gaskets have been on the market for a while and I'd be interested in hearing people's experience with the product after they install them.

Cork gaskets work fine when both metal surfaces are flat though I am sure they are more subject to "imprinting" than the silicone ones.

In any case I am sure we will all appreciate actual empiric input with these items.
 
Anyone out there
have an old/extra side cover that the maker can use as a mold to make one
up to fit big Healeys ?

:savewave:

Why don't they just buy a rubberised cork gasket from one of our existing suppliers to
make a mold?---Keoke- :frown:
 
This is a serious question.... Other than originality (and silicone gaskets aren't original), what is the love affair with gaskets?

Gaskets were developed and used long before todays modern sealants were developed and being used.

When used with sealant, every gasket presents 4 interfaces that can leak. Eliminating the gasket and sealing with sealant only presents 2 interfaces that can leak.

Few gaskets are used in todays engines.

Tim
 
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