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OIL FILTER

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LoneRanger

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Hard part completed, got the rubber seal out and the new one in. Switching to the spin-on after this oil change. Noticed the new FRAM filter from TRF (PN GFE131)does not have a cork gasket around the center hole as the previous filter had. There is just a flat cardboard-like outer cover on both side.

Does anyone know if they are they all supposed to have cork or some kind of gasket around the center hole??

Thanks for listening and responding.
 
The cardboard works well enough. Actually, I don't recall ever seeing one with cork.
 
Thanks Randall. I went with it after some additional research, but alas, the oil leaked out when I fired it up. Manual says the torque on the center bolt should be 15-20 lbs. I may have gone tighter. Can the over-tightening cause severe leaking?? Would I need a new O-ring??
 
You know it's not the easiest thing in the world keeping the Seal in place all around (even if it is the only one on the groove) while you offer up the canister and tighten the bolt.
The seal can crawl out of it's home in a very small inconspicuous spot when doing so.
 
Unreal. I guess this will have to be a re-do. Sounds like it's hit & miss getting it to sit correctly. Do you think I need another seal??

Thanks PoolBoy, appreciate the guidance.
 
Really you'll just have to wait and see what it looks like.. About 40 years ago, I had what I described "happen". In a way you were lucky that the leak started immediately. In my case the seal was pinched just enough where it held oil pressure until I got out on the highway...then it let loose.I burned up quite a few bearings and a crankshaft running without oil.
What you can do is gob grease on the seal, then fit it into the groove: the grease helps keep the seal in place. But still keep checking with your fingers until the canister is snug up against the seal. Once it's snug the you should be able to tighten the bolt.
 
I was lucky it started right away for sure. Wouldn't want to have to deal with any more issues, if I can avoid it. I did use some grease, maybe could use more. I thought the tightening of the cannister would pervent the seal from floating around. I simply did not take enough time "placing" the cannister in there.

Who offers the best adaptor kit, Moss, TRF, Victoria, Rimmer or BP Northwest?? Which do you recommend?? I've seen posts about leakage with them as well. Go figure?
 
well I can tell you that o ring, or actually its a square ring gasket that goes in the block should be wider. When I put my spin on oil filter on I had a terrible leak and only after I put dye in the oil did I find where it was leaking and from the adapter, took the adapter off and found the gasket had a deep cut in it, replace it, took my time reassembling it and the leak is gone, you just have to tighten it up slowly and not twist the housing after the seal is made. But as I said that gasket needs to be about 1/16 inch wider than it is

Hondo
 
LoneRanger said:
Who offers the best adaptor kit, Moss, TRF, Victoria, Rimmer or BP Northwest?? Which do you recommend?? I've seen posts about leakage with them as well.
Click to expand...

I got mine from Moss (brand Mocal I think) though the same brand may be carried by other vendors.

Both the adaptors I have done were leak free and greatly simplified, sped up and cleaned up the whole oil change regimen.
 
Thanks guys. Not sure all the adaptors are from the same source, so I wanted to drill down to see whose is working best. And yes, I do remember the cannister twisting at times during reassembly, so I will have to be more careful of that during the re-try.
 
Mocal for me, too. I found a good price at the time from British Parts Northwest
There's lots of filters that fit. The Napa Gold 1516 is widely accepted.
I've also used and intend to use again Purolator PureOne PL20195
 
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