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Oil experiment

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sparkydave

sparkydave

Jedi Knight
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Since it was almost time for an oil change anyway, I put Castrol 10W-30 in instead of the 20W-50 I've usually been using. Partly because the thing is nearly impossible to turn over over winter, but I've never liked that it takes a second or two for the oil pressure to register. Already I noticed a few differences, like the valves are quieter, the oil pressure comes up much faster, and the strange squeal I've always heard for a few seconds after starting it cold seems to be gone. The latter I've figured was the release bearing, so it could be completely unrelated. Anyway, the oil pressure is still around 60 PSI at speed and about 25 when idling.

In other news, if anybody needs to replace the oil pan, and you repaint the replacement, make sure the drain plug can be removed easily or put some oil on the threads before you bolt it on. Let's just say this was the first oil change since that event, and thank goodness for Vice Grips /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif.
 
My motor is a recent rebuild on it also. Less than an hour of run time so far, and no drive time just yet...

Anyway, I'm running the 20W50, but of course, it's still around 108 during the day here.

Growing up in Northern Ohio, I know what you mean about hard starting cars in the winter. I'd think you'd be fine dropping to 5W30 or 5W40 in the winter and going back to 10-30 or 10-40 in the summer. Just my thoughts.

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i have a recently overhauled engine interested in this experiment.

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I know this is probably pretty common knowledge, but I'll throw it out there anyway.... Don't run synthetic motor oil in a new engine until it has been sufficiently broken it....
 
I see nothing wrong with 10W30 oil in a sprite. Heck I don't see a problem with 5W30. Don't be afraid of the new oils. I think they will work fine on the street. 30 wt oil is a lot thinner when hot than the 5 weight measure when cold. The smaller number is a measure of the oil when cold and the larger number is the measure of the oil when hot. Two totaly different critters measured with different rulers... Apples and oranges.
On the squealing thing if you are depressing the clutch when you start the car, it could indeed be a release bearing. That will also cause the engine to drag on start up. Lot of friction loading on the bearings. Alway start the car in neutral without depressing the clutch.
 
Very interesting. I have never thought about the effects of starting the car with the clutch depressed. Neutral only makes perfect sense! I'll never start a car the same again!

My car takes a good 10-15 sec to register pressure. Is it really taking that long to get oil to the vitals, or just to the gauge?
 
I used an oil additive that is supposed to keep the parts lubed. I have no idea if it is working but I like the idea behind it. Warm climate here so I uses 20-w50 year round.
 
In regard to the oil additives, I have spent a lot of time at the Shell research facility in Houston. After talking to the engineers who spend millions of dollars on R&D on oil. I have decided that there is no way I can spend a few bucks and improve stuff produced by the guys who spend millions figuring it out.
I have also been to the places where those so-called secret additives are packaged. You would be very surprised by the low tech process used.
My last truck has(sold it to a friend) 300,000 miles and is still running great. It uses no oil(really about a quart every 3000 miles) and has only been filled with regular oil every 3000 miles.
Buy the additive if ya want.....I am not so sure about the results.
 
I don't hold the clutch when starting, since it doesn't do much good for the thrust bearings. I just put it in neutral and start it. I've never figured out whether it's the release bearing or not, partly because the release bearing is new (the old one was definitely shot and squealed all the time when I used the clutch). It just squeals for several seconds when it is started cold, and eventually gets quieter until it's gone. Since I switched oil though, I haven't heard it at all. Maybe when it gets cooler out I'll find out whether it really left or not.
 
I've been racing with the Castrol 20W-50 for some time but I've been very tempted to try 10W-40 for some of our cooler Fall events (to reduce parasitic drag). My car runs enduros (up to four hours) so I'm still on the fence with this.

I would have no problem using 10W-30 in a Spridget street car.

By the way, my tow-vehicle ('05 Ford) is running 5W-20.
I checked and Ford does not recommend anything thicker, even when towing.
 
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I have never thought about the effects of starting the car with the clutch depressed. Neutral only makes perfect sense! I'll never start a car the same again!

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This goes too for sitting at traffic lights/stops... Neutral is easier then too.
 
I am in the habit of starting my car with the clutch depressed and I am having a hard time breaking it. I picked up the habit from my wife's car. To start my wife's Toyota you have to put the car in neutral, depress the clutch, press the brake, put both hands on the wheel, blink thrice, and touch your nose with your tounge. Sheesh.
 
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