Oil Change

[memphis]

Hi All,

Planning my 1st oil change on the Healey in the near future and have a couple of questions...

Those that still have the OE canister/filter setup, how do you change the filter without getting oil left in the canister from running onto the starter?

Also, it seems that the starter solenoid sits very close to the canister. Actually looks like it may even be in the way?

Any comments, suggestions, advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[Keoke]

Hi All,

Planning my 1st oil change on the Healey in the near future and have a couple of questions...

Those that still have the OE canister/filter setup, how do you change the filter without getting oil left in the canister from running onto the starter?

Watch out!!!--Bob :laugh:

It Is simple you do not open the canister until you get it off the car. Place an old towel / rag around the mounting and unbolt the filter assembly from it's mount not from the engine and lift it out of the engine bay. Now pour the oil out of the canister assembly. Next remove the bolt at the bottom which will provide access to the dirty filter cartridge. Be careful here as there may be an internal part of the filter assembly [ a large flat washer ] stuck to the bottom of the cartridge,if so remove it.Clean the housing and its bits up install a new cartridge and fit a well oiled new sealing "O"ring in the filter assembly head make sure it seats properly and is the correct one. Now reinstall the assembly on the engine.
while this is going on the old oil should be draining from the sump.--Fwiw--Keoke-- :banana:

Also, it seems that the starter solenoid sits very close to the canister. Actually looks like it may even be in the way?---NAA!!!

Any comments, suggestions, advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[shorn]

Just plan on dropping the cannister onto the garage floor. That way you wont be so surprised and ticked off cleaning up the dirty oil. You will expect it.
When you replace the cannister, plan on keeping numerous rags available because this time you will probably pump several quarts of oil onto the floor as the cannister wont be aligned just right. Just keep someone close to the ignition switch to shut off the engine quickly.
OR Just order the spin on adapter now, before the oil change. Don't ask how I know this.

 

[Johnny]

For the first time anyway, DO Disconnect the battery.

Most switch to the 'spin on' type filter after changing the original a few times.

 

[glemon]

As far as getting the cannister to seat right on re-install, I still remember when I changed the oil in my MGB many years ago in the driveway, started it up and promptly dumped all the new oil in the driveway, amazing how fast it can drain out through a small crevice. As I recall at the time I then had to ride my bike to the store and spend the rest of my meager part time college job earnings for the week on more oil.

Anyway lesson learned, couple tips that have worked for me.

One, you don't need to change the rubber o-ring cannister seal that often, it doesn't get that hot it doesn't dry out, if you know it has been changed recently don't worry about it they last a long time, several years/oil changes easily.

Second, when putting the cannister on I wiggle it around as it gets close to the body of the cannister mount, as it gets just to the point where it is starting to make contact you can move it around and feal it find the proper spot (it can no longer move around and can be pushed farther in), use one hand to push against the spring pressure to hold it in place and the other to tighten the long nut that holds it in with the other.

I have had very good success using this method, as far as spilling a little oil when you remove the cannister, I have never mastered that, but careful use of the things already mentioned can minimize the drips..I keep a few rags handy.

 

[Keoke]

As far as getting the cannister to seat right on re-install, I still remember when I changed the oil in my MGB many years ago in the driveway, started it up and promptly dumped all the new oil in the driveway.----- :shocked:


That was a shame.

You never never restart the engine just after changing an oil filter.

Using the solenoid button you turn the engine over until you have rated oil pressure then make sure there are no leaks. Succeeding here_ Now gentlemen, you can start your engine.----Keoke--

 

[memphis]

Keoke,

There is a solenoid button to crank over the engine? I need to look closer at mine. Dont recall seeing this. Pretty cool!

Are there any known issues with converting to the spin-on filter? When I owned my Mercedes 280SL (W113), it had a similar canister/filter setup. There was a lot of discussion on a spin-on, after market, filter. Most were saying that it didnt filter the oil as well.

Any comments on this for the Healey spin on?

Thanks!
Bob

 

[Legal Bill]

The button is on the front end of the solenoid. The part facing the firewall.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

...
Are there any known issues with converting to the spin-on filter? When I owned my Mercedes 280SL (W113), it had a similar canister/filter setup. There was a lot of discussion on a spin-on, after market, filter. Most were saying that it didnt filter the oil as well.

Any comments on this for the Healey spin on?

Thanks!
Bob

Oh boy! Another oil thread begins.

There are two types of canister elements: paper and fiber. I don't have data, but it's a fair SWAG that the paper is equivalent to a spin-on filter's (usually) paper element, so that's a wash. Have heard--again, no data--that the fiber/cloth element filters better than paper; actually, maybe too good. Some say the cloth/fiber element, like the old Franz 'toilet paper' filter, remove some of the important additives in modern oil. At any rate, the filter only needs to remove particles with diameters near or larger than bearing clearances. If a filter removes much more, it will likely cause too much of a pressure drop.

Spin-on filters are good enough for every modern car I know of which, with reasonable maintenance, can easily go 150K miles or more (and have much tighter clearances than a Healey engine). And, I would think, the modern 'paper' elements are probably better than the original Tecalemit or Purolator paper elements.

FWIW, I've run a spin-on filter--with Wix cartridges--for probably 20 years and 90K miles with no issues. Also, since changing a canister is a PITA, you'll probably change your oil more often with a spin-on, and it's a bolt-on enhancement so you can put the canister back on if you want to go concours.

 

[nevets]

New filters come with 2 rubber gaskets, a thin one and a thick one. I've always used the thinner one, but wondered about the thicker one because it could possibly provide a better seal.

 

[GregW]

Hi Bob,
Photo of the starter button. Be sure not to wear chain mail gloves when you use it. :laugh:

 

[Keoke]

Greg!!



That is not a standard Healey type starter solenoid . The starter button on an original Healey type is on the opposite end.
, and has arubber cover over it so you wont hurt your hand. Where you get that thing.-----Keoke-- :laugh:

 

[johnea]

If you go for the canister type, make sure after changing the element, the center bolt is sufficiently tightened up to withstand the oil pressure. Mine blew the seal at 6000 RPM on a rolling road . . . . .

 

[Randy Forbes]

Thick & thin o-rings (who remembers the thick-n-thin men's socks?):

The thin O-ring goes between the cannister "can" and its base__be certain to remove ALL of the original O-ring (more than once, have I pulled 2__or more__from the groove).

The thick O-ring was used on some cars (like the earliest MGBs/MGAs, etc.) where the cannister hung downwards. There was an O-ring between the cannister base/adapter and the engine block.

Yes, in those applications, BOTH O-rings had to be correctly and accurately installed, and secured with the one (1) LONG bolt.

The middle-year MGBs with the upright cannister was easier to work on, but when you started the car, it took a minute before you had any oil pressure, while it was filling the cannister back up!

I guess from a packaging point of view, it was easier to supply both O-rings, than to carry a separate part number for an oil filter kit, depending on the application.

MGB picture for clarification, courtesy of Moss Motors:

 

[memphis]

Hello Everyone!

What a great discussion! I am looking forward to my 1st oil change in a few weeks.

I will take some pictures and post. I am curious if all of the seals are in place.

Thanks again!
Bob

ps. I did do a search on "oil change" and didnt get any relevant hits. Maybe we need to ensure that when we start a new thread that the "Subject" is indeed the topic? Thanks again! Bob

 

[nevets]

Randy

Thanks for solving the thick thin rubber gasket mystery for me. I'll sleep better now...

 

[glemon]

As far as getting the cannister to seat right on re-install, I still remember when I changed the oil in my MGB many years ago in the driveway, started it up and promptly dumped all the new oil in the driveway.----- :shocked:


That was a shame.

You never never restart the engine just after changing an oil filter.

Using the solenoid button you turn the engine over until you have rated oil pressure then make sure there are no leaks. Succeeding here_ Now gentlemen, you can start your engine.----Keoke--

That was about 30 years ago or so, I am much older and wiser now, at least I like to think so......I know for sure the older part iis correct.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

Boy I love this thread. I had forgotten my first oil change experience on the Healey 47 years ago. But apparently, not much has changed. Over the years, I've made every mistake mentioned here and was always amazed when things went south. I had been working on engines since I was a lad so I felt very confident in doing the first oil change on a "foreign car". After many changes, I finally got it down, only to discover I had lost the big flat washer that holds the filter in place years before. I think I ran for at least 5 years with new filters that did not function.....oh well, engines need to be rebuilt at some time. Finally converted to a spin on and life is much simpler.

During my farming years, I had a David Brown tractor built in England (Yes David Brown as in Aston Martin DB6). They were clever enough to put the oil filter canister right above the tool box. Every time you changed the filter, the old oil drained into the tool box and coated the contents. Never had any problem with rust on those tools.....

 

[Keoke]

Boy I love this thread. I had forgotten my first oil change experience on the Healey 47 years ago. But apparently, not much has changed. Over the years, I've made every mistake mentioned here and was always amazed when things went south. I had been working on engines since I was a lad so I felt very confident in doing the first oil change on a "foreign car". After many changes,

I finally got it down, only to discover I had lost the big flat washer that holds the filter in place years before.-----kEOKE-- :lol:

 

[GregW]

Greg!!



That is not a standard Healey type starter solenoid . The starter button on an original Healey type is on the opposite end.
, and has arubber cover over it so you wont hurt your hand. <span style="font-weight: bold">Where you get that thing.</span>-----Keoke-- :laugh:

Dang, forgot we were talking about electrical in an oil thread. :blush: I thought mine was stock, so I apologize. It has been in there since the late 70's and I even have a "new" replacement that came in a box of spare parts.