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Oil Change duration on new Toyota

Were are talking about 2014 technology, not some mid 20th century
Flat motor and the oil you used then still had chunks in it.
The syn they have now is not your old oil
And the motors are a heck of a lot better
 
Were are talking about 2014 technology, not some mid 20th century
Flat motor and the oil you used then still had chunks in it.
The syn they have now is not your old oil
And the motors are a heck of a lot better

It's not the oil that is the major problem, it's the contaminants. I don't care what flavor you run, go 10K and it WILL have chunks in it. The idea is to flush the carbon byproducts out that cause wear. 0w20 is too dam thin to stick to anything during a cold start. Yeah, they are "built better" now, if you can get 300K out of a flat w/ 1000 mile changes, just think how far a new engine would go. :whistle:

The main reason they last longer now is better fuel management, not oil, which BTW now has significantly reduced zinc content (read lube properties) supposedly for extended emissions life. Suuuure it does....:whistle:

These things are being designed to burn up faster. Why else do you think manufactures are making automatic transmissions with no dipstick?

They are forcing you to do business with the dealer...one way or the other. It is a money game, it is a business; their job is to sell you something. The quicker your junk burns up the more money they make. Sure, they gotten better over the years but anyone who has worked on stuff over the past 30 years will tell you they are now designed to be disposable.

BMW, MB and Volvo took a different route, they made interiors that fell apart after a few years. What better way to get someone worried about appearances out of an otherwise good car?:wink:

No, nobody is out to screw anyone else.... they are "just checking" for fit just in case....:smirk:

"These are not the droids you're looking for". :cooler:
 
Were are talking about 2014 technology, not some mid 20th century
Flat motor and the oil you used then still had chunks in it.
The syn they have now is not your old oil
And the motors are a heck of a lot better
Ah. 2014 technology. Computers all over. "Limp Home" if one fails, at best, if not call a wrecker. Yeah, I know about those. I also know I can set up points to get me home with a credit card. I know I can pull the top off a carburettor and clean a chunk of Saudi oil out of the needle and seat. I know if my battery dies, I can get it jumped and be on my way.
I know a gal in the Church with three kids and a newer Honda Odyssey. Mini van thing. Pulled in to get gas, shut it off, got gas, went to start, not even a click. Went to the tyre store across the street asking for a jump...they said won't do any good. The COMPUTER has decided your battery is at end-of-life and will NOT allow the car to be jumped.
Yeah. 2014 technology. Tracking your every move, recording your driving for law enforcement to download...insurance companies wanting access to your computers for "lower rates".
Don, you can take the 2014 technology and put it somewhere...carefully.
Opinion.
Dave
 
Play nice you guys....

pn.jpg
 
There is a reason that my daily driver is forty-seven years old, I think the Standard of Excellence is a well deserved description for the pre-seventies Caddys. I doubt very few of these "better" cars nowadays will still be on the road in forty-seven years.
 
My 2011 Nissan Altima owner's manual says to change oil and filter every 7500 miles.

Dealer says "we recommend you have it changed every 3000 miles".

Owner's manual says to change transmission fluid every 60K miles.

Dealer says "we recommend you have it changed every 30K miles".

I asked service manager why they recommend the more frequent changes. His reply "it gets dirty and dark".

Somehow I trust Nissan more than the dealer. Nissan doesn't make more money when the fluids are changed; dealer does.
 
My 2011 Nissan Altima owner's manual says to change oil and filter every 7500 miles.

Dealer says "we recommend you have it changed every 3000 miles".

Owner's manual says to change transmission fluid every 60K miles.

Dealer says "we recommend you have it changed every 30K miles".

I asked service manager why they recommend the more frequent changes. His reply "it gets dirty and dark".

Somehow I trust Nissan more than the dealer. Nissan doesn't make more money when the fluids are changed; dealer does.

Sure they do. Think about it.
You stretch the oil changes out to the factory recommendation, how many miles until the trans or engine goes, and are you going to fix it? Or buy a NEW version from that manufacturer?
That's what this thread is about. I would trust shop folks who see these every day over any manufacturer or sales folk.
Dave
 
Geez, you guys are all DINOSAURS!!!!!

What's wrong with being a dinosaur? They are fun to walk.......

 
I thought everybody was being pretty nice answering a question about a Toyota. He has received quite a few reasonable answers. Mostly if he has a manual and follows the full service of manufacturer specs these new cars can last 300K+ miles. Do not try to out think the people who designed and made the car. Afterall they have been doing this quite awhile and are pretty successful. As for dipsticks, the new Rovers and Jaguars have no dipstick and you use the dash computer to see if oil level is good. Yes, DNK, a lot of us are older than dirt. My 57 Chevy had 1000 mile intervals. Was not until I bought my 69 Galaxie did I see 3000 mile intervals. In 1980 I saw 5000 miles and today 15000 miles. All associated with closer tolerance of engines and better oils. So you are safe with 1/2 manufacturer intervals, and more people than you know go with or over the intervals. Seems it is cost preventive. My Rover with Jag engine takes 8 qts oil and a $65 filter, but still changed at 1/2 interval. Helps that I found filters for 1/3 the price. But trans hydralic fluid now that is expensive. Now you know why used cars extra warranty is costly. Just change the oil if run hard for extended trips, bad weather or sitting for long spells.
 
Sure they do. Think about it.
You stretch the oil changes out to the factory recommendation, how many miles until the trans or engine goes, and are you going to fix it? Or buy a NEW version from that manufacturer?
That's what this thread is about. I would trust shop folks who see these every day over any manufacturer or sales folk.
Dave

Well, I guess that's my point too. In the last forty some years, I've followed the manufacturer's maintenance table in my cars. I bought each car brand new, and each has lasted at least ten years, with about 15-20K miles per year, without any problems at all.
 
And, my 50 Tudor has well over 500K, is 65 years old, last motor went over 300K.
Here's the deal:
When your Toyotatas of Datsoons or whatever are 65 years old...or 75 years old....or 90 years old....we'll talk.
Your "new" cars will never be as old as my "old" cars.
 
I thought everybody was being pretty nice answering a question about a Toyota. He has received quite a few reasonable answers. Mostly if he has a manual and follows the full service of manufacturer specs these new cars can last 300K+ miles. Do not try to out think the people who designed and made the car. Afterall they have been doing this quite awhile and are pretty successful. As for dipsticks, the new Rovers and Jaguars have no dipstick and you use the dash computer to see if oil level is good. .


GMs don't and haven't for years, No way to check level or add too, you gotta pull the speed sensor to make a hole to fill it. It's supposed to be "checked" by having the dealer do a $200 service/flush on it.


Do not try to out think the people who designed and made the car. After all they have been doing this quite awhile and are pretty successful. All associated with closer tolerance of engines and better oils. .

Exactly, they last longer and sell less units. The 300K cars were running heavier oils with zinc. The tolerances aren't tighter, it's because manufacturing isn't as sloppy; big difference. Nobody is running around making engines with .001 piston to cylinder clearance or .0005-.0001 rod clearances. They are just able to hit closer to the spec it's supposed to be. Yes, some clearances are a LITTLE tighter but that due to different materials and thermal expansion concerns.


Synthetics don't break down as easy but if convention oil is breaking down then it's been in there too long. It's the dirt that kills you, we're not talking about running on propane. The darker it is, the more dirt it has in it.

Kell'ys expedition calls for 5/30. I've been running 20/50 w/ a half bottle of zinc since 100K and now at 205K it runs like it's brand new. Everyone said I would burn it up with the heavier oil due to "closer tolerances" too.....:rolleyes:

Oh, and the BS how "zinc is like dirt and too much will wear it out or freeze it up", yeah....whatever...:rolleyes:

You can't tell me these new snap-together cars are designed to last; no way...no how...:nonod:

Don't believe the hype, it's all BS and their job it to SELL you something.
 
There may be a problem with the additves breaking down and with contaminants. But the biggest problem I see is that there is no oil filter that will last 10,000 miles.
 
there may be a problem with the additives breaking down and with contaminants. But the biggest problem i see is that there is no oil filter that will last 10,000 miles.

franz! Franz!
 
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