Steve, pulling the engine and trans is a piece of cake. Let me see if I can walk you through it.
Disconnect the battery.
Drain the oil from the trans, as it will run out the tailshaft when removing it. While underneath, remove the clutch slave cylinder and ground strap. Remove the two lower trans mount bolts from the bottom of the tunnel. If you have the exhaust support bracket from the bell housing to the pipe, remove it from the bell housing. Unhook the speedometer cable from the trans.
On a Bugeye, you can remove everything without pulling the bonnet. I prefer to remove it.
Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator and hoses. Don't forget the capillary tube for the temp gauge. Be very careful here. Don't manhandle the tube. Once removed, secure it out of the way. Disconnect the hose from the tube to the oil pressure gauge and plug it. Disconnect the wires from the coil to the distributor, and from the starter switch to the starter. Remove the alternator, or at least unhook the wires to it.
Remove the hoses from the heater valve to the heater, and the heater to the tube at the intake manifold.
Disconnect the hose from the supply side of the carburetors and plug the hose.
From inside the cockpit, remove the two upper trans mount bolts, located on either side of the tunnel, below and forward of the shifter. Remove the shift tower and shifter knob.
<span style="color: #FF0000">There is a spring loaded anti rattle plunger that can fall into the extension housing when removing the shift lever. There is a plug on the side of the shifter housing that retains the spring and plunger. Pull that and remove the spring and plunger prior to removing the shifter.</span>
Remove the three bolts holding the shifter cover to the top of the rear extension and pull the shifter.
Now, back to the engine bay.
You can either pull the manifolds from the head and tie them back out of the way, or disconnect the throttle and choke cables and the exhaust pipe. I tie mine out of the way after removing the manifolds.
Attach your engine hoist to the engine. I usually use a bell housing bolt on the uppper left corner, and a corresponding bolt to the right front corner. Ideally, you will have a tilt mechanism to use in conjunction with the hoist. It makes life a BUNCH simpler.
Put a very small bit of tension on the lift. Disconnect the motor mounts from the front engine plate. Remove the bolts holding the left motor mount to the chassis.
Slowly raise the engine. Once it clears the mounts, it will try to swing forward. Continue lifting, making sure it will clear the steering rack, etc. As it comes up, roll the lift away from the car until you're clear.
I'm doing this from memory, so if I've left anything out, I'm sure I'll be corrected quickly. Probably by Jack, who's had his out and back in three times this last week! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
As always, observe proper safety precautions, jack stands, wheel chocks, etc. If the front wheels of your engine lift won't go under the car, remove the cars front wheels and support it with stands under the front rails, near the firewall.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Jeff
Hi Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
