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OD shaft lever O ring replacement

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Andy65

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Finally found the vexing oil leak. Bill guessed it: the O ring on the overdrive shaft lever.

Is it necessary to slide the shaft into the overdrive to replace the seal or can I pull the seal out with a dental pick and just slide a new seal on? Want to replace without removing transmission. Any tips appreciated. BJ8

Can the seal be bought at NAPA? Anyone know the size? Don't want to wait for shipping.
 
Andy65 said:
Finally found the vexing oil leak. Bill guessed it: the O ring on the overdrive shaft lever.

Is it necessary to slide the shaft into the overdrive to replace the seal-- :nonod:

can I pull the seal out with a dental pick and just slide a new seal on?-- :yesnod:

Want to replace without removing transmission. Any tips appreciated.
OK RH seal a bit more trouble but not easier with the tranny in or out.

Can the seal be bought at NAPA???????? Anyone know the size? Don't want to wait for shipping.
Click to expand...
 
Does anyone know the dimensions of this o-ring.
I know I'll destroy it getting it out.
Surely they can be bought locally? Must drive the Healey to the meet next week.
 
This o-ring is nothing special, I would guess it is 1/4 or 5/16 ID by 1/2 OD. I am sure you can get one from a blister pack assortment sold at most auto parts store. Moss sells them for just $.65, so you know it isn't anything odd.

I take out the valve ball, spring and actuating rod under the pressure port on the top of the OD before working on the shaft seals. There is some chance you may drop the actuating rod into the OD if you don't remove it first. Depressurize the OD by actuating it manually off an on a few times before opening the pressure port.

I am not positive about the BJ8, but the BN1 has two of these seals, one on each side of the OD. To replace the seal on the passenger side, you need to drive the pin out of the actuating arm on the shaft and take it off, leaving the shaft in place. Then you can easily replace the seal. The driver's side seal requires removing another actuating arm that is held on with a pinch bolt.

When you put the actuating arm back on, make sure you set it close enough to the OD so that it compresses the seals slightly or they will still leak even if renewed.

You may need to adjust the linkage when you're done to make sure everything actuates OK. You can do all these operations with the tranny in the car, but the transmission tunnel need to come off.

Good luck and good leaking! This cheap little seal is responsible for lots of leaking OD's, I am amazed how such a tiny little shaft can leak so much!

Bill.
 
Bill, thanks for the detailed answer and the heads up on dropping the actuating rod. I'm doing the seal on the passenger side. The BN2-BJ8 overdrives are about the same with two seals. The casting where the solenoid mounts is a little different.

It would seem the way the solenoid attaches to the pinch bolt lever it prevents the shaft from sliding left or right and thus the actuating rod won't fall off the cam when working on the passenger side seal. Or are you thinking without the passenger side o-ring, the shaft can slide aft allowing the rod to drop off the cam?

What do you think? Is it okay to leave the actuating rod in place when working on just the passenger side o-ring? I'm up against a time element so I don't want to remove the tunnel and center console, sealing etc. unless necessary.

Re set the actuating arm close enough to OD to compress seal: Has anyone tried using two o-rings like we do in the steering box?

NAPA says they have a device to measure o-rings to match it up. I'll let you know.
 
Hi The Cam is not very wide and does not require much movement to slip past the actuating valve rod end . Consequently, I think it is in your best interests to remove the actuating piston rod.--Keoke
 
Andy:

I think you can change this seal without taking the tranny cover off, though I have never tried to do this. Leave the actuating arm on the driver's side in place when you work on the passenger side. Be careful not to move the rod perpendicular to the OD once you remove the passenger's side actuating arm. If you do, that vertical valve rod could slip off and you'll need to take off the cover to fish it out. It might be tricky to drive that little pin on the passenger side arm with the tranny cover on.

Personally, I would let it leak for now (just top of the tranny occasionally) and wait until you have time to do the job right with the cover off the transmission.

FYI, the BN1 I have uses an unusual seal on the passenger side that is no longer available -- but I found that two o-rings fill the seal cavity nicely and have definitely sealed mine. I don't think two o-rings per side are necessary on BN2 and later OD's like yours. I used just one o-ring on the driver's side.

Bill.
 
Now I figure if I leave the vertical rod in place and it falls in as I know it will after someone says be careful not to, I won't dare post on the board again, especially with Keoke's laughing icons.

I can't let the leak go. It is unbelievable how much oil comes out from that seal. I'll bet nearly a quart an hour.
 
Just re-register with a different name. :laugh:
 
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