nyloc or castle

[artpart]

I had to switch the rear flange from my old 4 speed to my new a-overdrive tranny (long story). The four speed used a nyloc nut on the end of the tranny and the a-overdrive used a castle nut. Is one better than the other? Opinions please!

 

[Guest]

You are limited to the torque you can get on a castle nut because somewhere in the cranking down, you will have to fit a pin, often either too tight or not tight enough. Works great on a spindle where you want to back off a bit. I would use a Nyloc, or better yet, an all-metal lock nut.

 

[PeterK]

If you are referring to the single nut on the tailshaft of the gearbox, I think that castleated is always called for to get the proper bearing load. A deforming all metal nut could be problematic here. I agree with Bill for the flange bolts but not on the tailshaft.

Check your manual and use the original style nut.

What car are you working on?

My Parts Catalogue shows Flange to Mainshaft nut as slotted (castle) with plain washer and split pin.

 

[artpart]

Sorry, it's a tr6. TRF's blue book shows a castle nut fitted through '72 and a nyloc fitted from '73 forward.

Also, Bently shows a nyloc.

 

[RonMacPherson]

I recommend the nyloc. get a good one. Not a hardware store one. Recommend you do NOT use an all metal one. Why? distortion of the threads on the shaft.

 

[PeterK]

Well then if it was originally a nyloc, the shaft wouldn't be drilled for a split pin. So you have you answer - use a nyloc!

 

[DougF]

Most nylocs are only a Grade 5. They are available, but harder to find, in Grade 8. Use Grade 8 if you go that route.
I would go back to original if possible since I've never heard of a case where one has come off.
Regardless of what you decide on, use safety wire or a cotter pin once the fastener is in place.