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now THAT was fun!

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RobSelina

RobSelina

Jedi Warrior
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Just took the spitfidget out for a spin after my last round of mods/repairs and I don't think I could have been grinning any wider /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Here's what I got done:
- replaced rear wheel bearings/seals
- replaced rear drums and shoes
- rebuilt driverside rear wheel drum (pass was a-ok)
- replaced a-arm bushings with poly
- replaced trunion bushings with nylatron offset bushings from winners circle.
- brembo rotors & hawk hp+ pads up front
- fixed leaking fitting on driver side caliper
- cleaned up caliper pistons but did not rebuild (not necessary)
- replaced brake MC cover (thought it needed rebuilding but it was just the leaking cover gasket)
- valvoline synthetic dot 3/4 brake fluid
- rotated tires
- built new spherical rod-end swaybar end links
- upgraded/finalized my front and rear tube shock conversions - replaced all the hardware with grade 8 and added aluminum spacers in place of washers I had put there 'temporarily'.
- 13" RPW wheel and removable hub.

The car's handling and braking are MUCH improved. As some of you may recall, I recently did some maintenance to the engine and upgraded the intake and exhaust system which suddenly made some braking problems much more apparent now that I had a little more 'get up and go'.

Some thoughts:
1 - poly bushings do not ride hard at all, but the responsiveness from the wheel is much improved.
2 - the offset trunion bushes are GREAT. Really helps cornering. I would run these on any spridget with radial tires. 1.5-degrees negative camber is not that much.
3 - spridget brakes don't have to be soft! I can't believe how much different my brake pedal feels. You'd think I had just installed a brake booster, they work so much better! For those wondering I have a stock system in good shape with three improvements: stainless braided lines, hawk hp+ pads and brembo rotors.
4 - Nial had reported that the Hawk pads fit loosly in his calipers and one rotated. Mine seem to fit just fine. One problem though was that the first set Moss sent me had a defective pad that had been milled at an angle on the abrasive side. It was off by around 3/16". The second set they sent me were all fine. I want to wait and see how they perform long term, but my initial observations are positive.

Anyway, this was just a quick run to bed the new pads, but I can't wait to take her out for a real drive tomorrow! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

I just wish it would stop raining! I reinstalled my soft top today so I'd be able to drive it, but I much prefer to leave it off the vehicle....
 
We do all this talk of rebuilds and repairs, that it is really nice to just go out and drive, now isn't it!
 
definitely!

Unfortunately one of my other projects will be under the knife for a while. My rock buggy is under the weather and I've decided to just deal with most of its issues and get them over with. I've got a t-case and trans rebuild kit on the way, I also have the seals to freshen up the engine and I'm also planning on rebuilding the carb and both winches. Oh yea, did I mention I was going to tear apart the axles too and replace my fuel delivery system? not going to be much left!

A little unfortunate since it's still 4x4 season, but at least I'll have the spridget to enjoy!
 
Glad you have a good follow up report.

BTW... I thought rock crawlers had to be FI... How do you keep a carb system working at extreme angles?
 
rob
great information especially for me since i am planning to make some of the same changes to my sprite. its good to hear about the poly bushings. i will consider the new rotors and pads as well. i inspected the old brake lines last week and will probably order a new set of brake lines. when you said braided brake lines do you mean the flex hose from the hardline to the wheel or the entire brake line system?
 
Cool!
And I'm glad to hear that your brake pads fit properly (this year, I have new Brembo rotors and Carbotech pads...works great too).
If you get a chance, it would be good to see what you have done with the sway bar links.
 
im right with you on that one ben. i'm not a virgin but after nearly 28 plus years since i last drove my sprite, i certainly qualify as one. piece by piece i'm getting closer!
 
...I had to go out and *do something* after seein' this post. The B is now reversed up the driveway. First engine start in almost a year. Now I have "induction issues". I'll get right on that! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Glad you have a good follow up report.

BTW... I thought rock crawlers had to be FI... How do you keep a carb system working at extreme angles?

[/ QUOTE ]

FI certainly works better, but some carburetors are adequate. Formulat Toy rock crawling competition rigs are often carbureted since they get a points deduction for FI. Anyway, I run a Motorcraft 2150 two-barel carb. She's pretty consistent at rough angles and altitude. When she gets fussy, that usually just means I need to keep the RPMs up to stop her stalling out....
 
[ QUOTE ]

If you get a chance, it would be good to see what you have done with the sway bar links.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'll try to snap a photo or two tonight. I'll also post up a 'if I did it a 2nd time' parts list. Mine will work fine, but there are improvements to be made.
 
[ QUOTE ]
when you said braided brake lines do you mean the flex hose from the hardline to the wheel or the entire brake line system?

[/ QUOTE ]

right, just the flex hoses were replaced. I think I bought my replacements from Moss.

One thing worth noting - the copper washers they supply are not ideal IMO. The washer at the caliper should be smaller ID. I replaced them with some washers I found at the local parts house. Also, they are goodrich lines and someone posted the part number so you can probably buy them somewhere cheaper than Moss.
 
thanks for the insight on the brake lines. i realized you ment the flex hoses after thinking a bit. just received most brake parts today and will be ordering new hardline and flex hoses next week.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

If you get a chance, it would be good to see what you have done with the sway bar links.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'll try to snap a photo or two tonight. I'll also post up a 'if I did it a 2nd time' parts list. Mine will work fine, but there are improvements to be made.

[/ QUOTE ]

Didn't get a chance to snap a photo, but here's what I used.

All the following part #s are for www.mcmaster.com. Just punch them in and you'll get a photo:

Mostly to experiment, I picked up two different rod end levels:

60645K251
6072K171

I like the self lubricating one better (the left hand thread ones). It has a brass bushing in between the housing and ball.

I then used some grade 8 nuts and a an 1" of 1/2" pipe to make the bodies with the welder. Also have jamb nuts of course.

Problem is, I didn't notice that the stock mounts on the A-arm have a taper on them, so I'm relying on torque to keep these things from rattling.

If I were to do it over, I'd use 1/2" hardware (drill out the mounts and swaybar if necessary), all right hand thread and just buy some threaded rod for the stud inbetween the rod ends. Here's what I'd use:

6072K34 (4)
92580A111 (1)
90475A033 (4)

You'll need to cut the threaded rod to length, but that would be the only fabrication required. You'll also need 1/2-20 nylock nuts for the stud mounts, but you can get those just about anywhere.
 
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